HOW TO MAKE A PATCH­WORK QUILT

Mollie Makes - - At Home With... -

MA­TE­RI­ALS

1 long quar­ter of Do­mo­tex Le Tissu Her­ring­bone Pas­tel in Grey (Fab­ric 1) 1 fat quar­ter each of Do­mo­tex Le Tissu Her­ring­bone Pas­tel in Grey (Fab­ric 1), Blush (Fab­ric 2), Yel­low (Fab­ric 3) and Mint (Fab­ric 4) (ours was from www. the­fab­ric­fox.co.uk) 1 fat eighth each of Cot­ton & Steel Panorama/Sun­rise in Drops Lip­stick (Fab­ric 5), Lil’ Mon­sters in Shat­tered Aqua (Fab­ric 6) and Ba­sics Dot­tie in Di­jon Mus­tard (Fab­ric 7) 1 fat eighth of Art Gallery Fab­rics Take Shape in Tri­lat­eral Stripe (Fab­ric 8) 1m (393/ Rico De­signs Ba­sics in Tri­an­gles White (Fab­ric 9) 2m (78¾") printed cot­ton back­ing fab­ric (Fab­ric 10) 122 x 145cm (48 x 57") wad­ding Ro­tary cut­ter Cut­ting mat Quilt­ing ruler

FIN­ISHED SIZE

111 x 133cm (43¾ x 52½") First foray into patch­work? You got this. Di­rec­tional prints and colour pops are tem­pered with a sub­dued back­ground fab­ric for an im­pres­sive quilt that’s eas­ier to sew than you might think. The de­sign is based on the trad Dis­ap­pear­ing Nine Patch block, but with dif­fer­ent lay­outs for a more ex­pres­sive fin­ish.

Use a 0.5cm (¼") seam al­lowance through­out, un­less oth­er­wise noted, and press the seams for the blocks open as you go.

Us­ing the ro­tary cut­ter and cut­ting mat, from each of the fat quar­ters of Fab­rics 1- 4 cut eight 16.5cm (6½") squares – 32 squares in to­tal. From each of Fab­rics 5-8, cut two 16.5cm (6½") squares – 32 squares in to­tal. From Fab­ric 9, cut 32 16.5cm (6½") squares. For the bind­ing, cut five 6.5cm (2½") strips from the Fab­ric 1 long quar­ter along the width of the fab­ric.

To make the blocks, take four Fab­ric 9 squares, one of each of the Fab­rics 1- 4 squares and one of the squares from Fab­rics 5-8. Re­fer­ring to the di­a­grams above, lay out six of Block 1 and two of Block 2. Al­ter­nate the place­ments of the di­rec­tional fab­rics in each block.

Start­ing with the top row, place two squares with right sides (RS) to­gether and sew one edge. Open out. Place the re­main­ing square on top of the cen­tre square with RS to­gether and sew the join­ing edge.

Re­peat Step 2 with the re­main­ing two rows for the block. Press seams for rows one and three in one di­rec­tion (e.g. left), and row two in the other (e.g. right).

Place row 1 and row 2 with RS to­gether. Make sure the seam al­lowances are op­po­site each other to help the seams nest to­gether, then sew the long edge. Place row 3 RS to­gether with row 2 and sew, mak­ing sure the seam al­lowances go in op­po­site di­rec­tions. Press.

Mea­sure and mark the cen­tre of each edge of the block, so 7.5cm (3") across, then use the marks as a guide to cut it into four sub-blocks.

Re­peat Steps 3-6 for each block to give a to­tal of 32 sub-blocks.

For the quilt top, re­fer­ring to the lay­out di­a­gram above, place the

sub-blocks in a 5 x 6 lay­out that you’re happy with. Start by tak­ing one sub-block from Block 2 and three dif­fer­ent sub-blocks from Block One, so you have one of each of Fab­rics 5-8 in each square. Place these four sub-blocks so they don’t match, re­fer­ring to the di­a­gram. Re­peat with the re­main­ing sub-blocks for a to­tal of six blocks. Take a fur­ther six sub-blocks to cre­ate a fi­nal row for the 5 x 6 lay­out, plac­ing them to con­tinue the pat­tern. You’ll have two sub-blocks left over. If you’re not sure the lay­out works, take a pic­ture and fil­ter it in black and white to check the strong and light colours are evenly dis­trib­uted.

Start­ing with the top row, place the first two squares RS to­gether and sew as per Step 3. Re­peat with the re­main­ing squares in the row.

Re­peat Step 9 to sew each row in the quilt top.

Press the seams for rows 1, 3 and 5 in one di­rec­tion (e.g. left) and the seams for rows 2, 4 and 6 in the op­po­site di­rec­tion. Sew the rows to­gether as in Step 5.

Press the fin­ished quilt top, then make a quilt sand­wich by plac­ing the back­ing fab­ric RS down, lay­ing the wad­ding on top, then the quilt top RS up. Pin, clip or tack all three of the lay­ers to­gether.

Top stitch lines ap­prox­i­mately 7.5cm (3") apart in an L shape across the quilt top to echo the di­rec­tion­al­ity of the fab­ric, or quilt as de­sired to se­cure the lay­ers.

Trim the ex­cess quilt top, wad­ding and back­ing level to leave a 0.5cm ( ") seam al­lowance and en­sure the quilt is square.

Sew the bind­ing strips to­gether at the short ends us­ing di­ag­o­nal seams. Trim the ex­cess fab­ric leav­ing a 0.5cm ( ") seam al­lowance and press open. Fold the bind­ing strip in half along the length with WS to­gether and press. Fold the long raw edges into the cen­tre crease and press again.

Open the bind­ing and pin to the quilt front with RS to­gether, align­ing the long raw edges. Sew, fold­ing a mitre at each cor­ner, then fold the bind­ing to the quilt back. Whip­stitch in place to fin­ish.

QUILT TOP LAY­OUT

BLOCK 1

BLOCK 2

12 16

13

EX­AM­PLES OF BLOCK LAY­OUTS

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