Mollie Makes - - At Home With... -

A calm­ing lilac quilt is a bed­time must for a new bubba, we reckon – all hand-stitched love and gen­tly crum­pled linen. The Bap­tist fan pat­tern re­peat gives glo­ri­ous trad-meets-modern tex­ture and is care­fully sewn in match­ing pas­tel thread. For a bolder look, you could quilt yours with a con­trast­ing thread, or use dif­fer­ent colours to stitch lit­tle rain­bows. A stronger shade or print for the bind­ing fab­ric would up the im­pact too.

01 Cut an 18 x 2.5cm (71/ 8 x 1") strip of tem­plate plas­tic. Use a pen to mark 0.5cm (¼") in from one end, then mark ev­ery 2.5cm (1") af­ter that. Pierce each of the seven holes with a pin, then en­large all but the first with the point of a pair of scis­sors, push­ing them all through from the same side so that all rough edges are on top.

02 Layer the back­ing fab­ric – Fab­ric 2 – on a ta­ble, fol­lowed by the wad­ding and then Fab­ric 1, smooth­ing out wrin­kles as you go. This is the quilt sand­wich. Make sure all the pieces are slightly larger than the fi­nal size of the quilt, as the linen will shift slightly dur­ing the tack­ing and quilt­ing process.

03 Keep­ing the quilt sand­wich laid out flat, and start­ing at one cor­ner, use con­trast­ing thread to tack stitches roughly 5cm (2") long down the length of the quilt. Once you reach the other end of the quilt, sew a 10-15cm (4- 6") tack­ing stitch to one side and start a new line, as shown. Con­tinue un­til the whole quilt is tacked to­gether.

04 Use a ruler and the erasable fab­ric marker to draw a 70 x 90cm (275/ x 35½") rec­tan­gle on Fab­ric 1, 8 the size of the fin­ished quilt.

05 Place the tem­plate along the bot­tom line at the right-hand side, po­si­tion­ing the first hole over the cor­ner. Us­ing a pin to hold it in place at the cor­ner, place the fab­ric marker in the first en­larged hole and slide the tem­plate up and to the right, piv­ot­ing on the pin, draw­ing an arc un­til it reaches the right-hand side of the rec­tan­gle. Keep it there as you move the fab­ric marker to the next hole up be­fore slid­ing it down to the bot­tom edge. Move the marker up to the next hole and con­tinue slid­ing back and forth un­til all six arcs of the fan are drawn.

06 Move the pin and tem­plate to the point where the outer line of the first fan meets the bot­tom edge of the quilt and start the next fan, draw­ing the arcs with the tem­plate in the same way. Con­tinue to the far edge of the quilt. Start the next row di­rectly above the first fan, plac­ing the pin where the out­er­most arc of the fan be­low meets the right-hand side of the rec­tan­gle. Con­tinue this row as be­fore, and re­peat un­til the whole quilt is cov­ered with fan arcs.

07 Be­gin quilt­ing in the lower right-hand cor­ner, bring­ing the nee­dle with your cho­sen quilt­ing thread through from the back to where you want to start stitch­ing. Pull the thread un­til the knot reaches the back­ing fab­ric, then con­tinue un­til the knot ‘pops’ through the back­ing fab­ric to rest in­side the quilt sand­wich. Work your way up and down the fan arcs in the same way you drew them.

08 Once fully quilted, re­move the tack­ing stitches. Us­ing a ruler to en­sure the edges are straight, cut away any ex­cess fab­ric and wad­ding with­out cut­ting through any of the quilt­ing stitches.

09 Cut four 6cm (23/ 8") strips across the width of Fab­ric 3. Join the strips by lay­ing the ends at 90º with right sides (RS) to­gether. Sew di­ag­o­nally across the cor­ner and trim away the ex­cess. Press the seams open to cre­ate a sin­gle length of bind­ing, then the press whole length in half with wrong sides ( WS) to­gether.

10 Leav­ing a 20cm (77/ 8") tail and start­ing in the cen­tre of one side at the front of the quilt, align the raw edges of the bind­ing and the quilt, RS to­gether. Sew us­ing a 0.5cm (¼") seam al­lowance, back­stitch­ing at the be­gin­ning to se­cure it.

11 At the cor­ner, stop 0.5cm (¼") from the bot­tom edge. Ro­tate the quilt slightly so the re­main­der of the seam runs into the cor­ner point of the quilt. Re­move from the ma­chine and fold the bind­ing up at 45" along the sewn line. Bring it down again so the raw edge aligns with the next edge of the quilt and the fold lines up with the pre­vi­ous edge. Con­tinue sewing the bind­ing. Re­peat for the re­main­ing cor­ners and stop ap­prox­i­mately 25cm (97/ 8") be­fore the start point.

12 Lay the quilt out and over­lap the two ends of the bind­ing. At the cen­tre of the open­ing, mea­sure 6cm (23/ 8") of over­lap and trim away the rest. Lay the two bind­ing ends RS to­gether at 90" and sew to­gether as per Step 9 to join. Align the bind­ing with the quilt edge and fin­ish sewing it down.

13 Turn the quilt over and fold the bind­ing edge to the back. Us­ing a fine co­or­di­nat­ing thread, hand-sew down the bind­ing, catch­ing just a small amount of bind­ing fab­ric in each stitch. Make sure the stitches only go through the back­ing fab­ric and wad­ding or they will be vis­i­ble on the front. At the cor­ners, fold over into a neat mitred cor­ner and se­cure with a cou­ple of ex­tra stitches. Once fin­ished, ma­chine wash on a gen­tle cy­cle to re­move the pat­tern mark­ings, then dry flat.

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