HOW TO MAKE A CAN­VAS BACK­PACK

Mollie Makes - - Advertisement Feature -

MA­TE­RI­ALS

50cm (19¾") each of waxed can­vas in wine (Fab­ric 1) and caramel (Fab­ric 2) 50cm (19¾") medium weight cot­ton can­vas (Fab­ric 3) 3m (1181/ 8") dark brown web­bing, 2.5cm (1") wide Match­ing sewing thread Four sets of mag­netic pop­pers, 1.5cm ( 5 /8") wide Two D rings, 3cm (1¼") wide Two strap ad­justers, 3cm (1¼") wide Tai­lor’s chalk In­trepid to you could mean wild camp­ing, sur­viv­ing the com­mute, or just rins­ing the free wifi at that café all day on only one latte. This is the kind of ruck­sack you’ll want at hand for those fear­less week­ends or ev­ery­day ad­ven­tures – it’s prac­ti­cal but def­i­nitely a looker, and is roomy enough to house a lap­top, note­book, snacks and your lat­est project.

What we love about waxed can­vas is that it’s wa­ter re­pel­lent, and it’ll de­velop a lovely ‘vin­tage leather’ look as it’s han­dled – to speed this up, scrunch up your pieces a bit then flat­ten out again be­fore you sew them. You’ll need to use a sewing ma­chine nee­dle suit­able for heav­ier weight fab­rics.

From Fab­ric 1, cut a 38 x 35cm (15 x 13¾") piece for the front pock­ets, a 20 x 25cm (77/ x 97/ piece for the back base, a 16 x 16cm (63/ x 63/ piece for the pocket flap and two 7 x 7cm (2¾ x 2¾") squares for the strap loops. From Fab­rics 2 and Fab­ric 3, cut two 55 x 35cm (215/ x 13¾") pieces.

Take the front pock­ets piece and fold in half so the two 35cm (13¾") edges meet. Un­fold and mark two points 2cm (¾") down from the fold and 14.5cm (5¾") in from each side. At each of these two points, add a neg­a­tive side of one of the mag­netic pop­pers. To do this, cut a 4mm slit about 3mm to the left of one of the marks and an­other 3mm to the right. In­sert the lit­tle ‘arms’ at the back of the pop­per through the slits and fold them down se­curely. Re­peat at the other mark with the sec­ond pop­per. Fold the pock­ets piece in half again, mak­ing sure the pop­pers end up on the out­side. Sew along the folded edge about 3mm in.

Lay out one of the Fab­ric 2 pan­els with the short edges at the top and bot­tom, and lay the pocket panel on top, align­ing the bot­tom raw edges. Pin in place, then mark and sew two ver­ti­cal lines down the pocket panel, each 10.5cm (4¼") in from the sides. Fi­nally, mark and sew across the panel 5cm (2") up from the bot­tom edge.

To make the flap for the mid­dle pocket, fold the flap piece in half, un­fold, then mark two points 2cm (¾") down from the fold and 5cm (2") in from each side. At each of these two points, add a pos­i­tive side of one of the mag­netic pop­pers as per Step 2. Fold the flap piece in half again along the fold, this time with the pop­pers on the in­side. Pin and sew along the two short edges. Turn the flap right side (RS) out. Fold the open long edges to the wrong side ( WS) by 1cm ( and pin. Sew along the open edge about 0.5cm (¼") in, then con­tinue sewing around the other three edges, about 2-3mm in.

Place the flap on top of the pocket so the edge that was open is at the top and the pop­pers match up. Pin the flap in place along the top edge and sew to the front panel along the pinned edge, 0.5cm (¼") down from the top.

To fin­ish the front panel, add the neg­a­tive sides of the re­main­ing set of mag­netic pop­pers – these will match up with the web­bing tabs. Mark two points 28cm (11") down from the top edge of the front panel and 10.5cm (4¼") in from the sides. Fit the pop­pers at these points as per Step 2.

Next, as­sem­ble the back panel. Start by tak­ing the Fab­ric 1 base piece and fold­ing one of the longer edges over by 1cm ( Lay out the other Fab­ric 2 panel and place the base piece on top, align­ing the raw edges at the bot­tom, and po­si­tion­ing the folded edge at the top with the edge folded un­der. Sew along the folded edge ap­prox­i­mately 3mm in.

Take the two small 7 x 7cm (2¾ x 2¾") squares of Fab­ric 1 and fold each edge to the WS by 1cm ( Sew in place roughly 0.5cm (¼") in. Next, cut two pieces of web­bing, each 8cm (31/ long. Fold each piece in half and thread through one of the D rings. Pin one of the squares on the back panel, 7cm (2¾") in from the right-hand side and 7cm (2¾") up from the bot­tom edge. Pin the other square 7cm (2¾") in from the left-hand edge and 7cm (2¾") up from the bot­tom edge. Tuck the ends of one of the web­bing D ring loops un­der the top of each square by 1.5cm ( and pin in place. Sew around the edge of each square, 4mm in, then sew from cor­ner to cor­ner di­ag­o­nally across to se­cure it.

Lay out the back panel with the D ring loops at the bot­tom. Cut two 15cm (6") lengths of web­bing and place one of them 15cm (6") down from the top edge of the panel, keep­ing it hor­i­zon­tal and cen­tral. Pin in place, then fold the ends to the WS by 1cm ( and pin. Take the other length of web­bing and fold it round to form a flat­tened loop, as shown. Tuck both cut ends of the loop un­der the pinned strip, keep­ing them cen­tral, and pin in place. Cut two 75cm (29½") lengths of web­bing and tuck one end of each un­der the hor­i­zon­tal strip, ei­ther side of the loop – make sure to tuck at least 1.5cm ( of the ends un­der. Sew all the way around the edges of the hor­i­zon­tal strip, about 3mm in, sewing twice to make sure the straps and loop are se­cure.

Take one of the long web­bing straps and thread the loose end through a strap ad­juster, through the D ring front to back, then back up and un­der the cen­tral bar of the ad­juster again, from top to bot­tom. Leave 5cm (2") of web­bing stick­ing out of the strap ad­juster, fold the end un­der by 1cm ( and pin and sew to the strap. Re­peat this step to make the sec­ond strap.

Next, add the tabs that close the bag. Cut two lengths of web­bing, each 30cm (117/ Fold over one end of one of the pieces by 1cm ( and pin that end to the back panel, 9.25cm (3¾") in from the right hand edge and about 2.5cm (1") be­low the strip of web­bing hold­ing the straps in

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