HOW TO MAKE A CRO­CHET COWL

Mollie Makes - - Introducin­g -

MA­TE­RI­ALS Q Folke­stone Har­bour Yarn DK, 100% Kent Rom­ney wool, 300m/328yd per 100g skein or 60m/66yd per 20g mini skein, one skein of Cochineal Pink (Yarn A) and one mini skein each in Indigo Light Blue (Yarn B), Turmeric Bright Yel­low (Yarn C) Mad­der & Turmeric Or­ange (Yarn D), Mad­der & Cochineal Light­est Pink (Yarn E) and Cochineal Pas­tel Pink (Yarn F) (from www. fhar­bour­yarn.etsy.com) Q 4.5mm (UK 7, US 7) cro­chet hook Q Stitch marker (op­tional) Q Yarn nee­dle

FIN­ISHED SIZE Ap­prox. 62cm (243/ ") from 8 top to tip and 68cm (26 ") cir­cum­fer­ence

TEN­SION

Ap­prox. 8 rows and 5 granny stitch clus­ters (15tr) to mea­sure 10cm (4")

AB­BRE­VI­A­TIONS (UK)

st(s) stitch(es) sp(s) space(s) ch chain ch-sp chain space clu clus­ter of 3tr sts dc dou­ble cro­chet ss slip stitch tr treble yrh yarn round hook dc2­tog dou­ble cro­chet 2 to­gether – (in­sert hook in next st, yrh and draw loop

through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook RS right side rep re­peat While we adore the blush pink good­ness of an av­o­cado dye bath, some­times you want to switch up those muted, earthy tones for some­thing a bit brighter.

Hand-dyed us­ing hues from the great out­doors (we al­ways knew Mother Na­ture was a rain­bow lover), Folke­stone Har­bour Yarn is spot on for this spring-in­spired cro­chet cowl. Af­ter all, what bet­ter way to look ahead to the new sea­son than by hook­ing up a new ac­ces­sory?

This de­sign looks like a fancy tri­an­gle shawl, but it’s ac­tu­ally seamed at the back to form a cosy cowl – much eas­ier to make and just as cov­etable. If you’re a new­bie to the world of cro­chet, head over to www.mol­liemakes.com and you’ll find step-by-step tu­to­rial videos to take you through the ba­sics.

In­struc­tions The cowl is made in one flat piece from the top down. Start­ing off as a tri­an­gle, the sides are then squared off and a dou­ble cro­chet edg­ing is added. Fi­nally, the two sides are sewn to­gether to cre­ate the cowl. Ch3 at be­gin­ning of rows counts as first tr through­out When chang­ing colour for a new row, do so on the last yrh of the last st of pre­vi­ous row Foun­da­tion us­ing Yarn A, ch4 and join into a ring with a ss Row 1 (RS) ch3, (3tr, ch2, 4tr) into the ring, turn [1 clu per side with 1tr on each edge] Row 2 ch3, 3tr in st at base of ch3, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, 4tr in top of 3ch, turn [2 clu per side with 1tr on each edge] Row 3 ch3, 3tr in st at base of ch3, 3tr in next sp be­tween clu, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr in next sp be­tween clu, 4tr in top of 3ch, turn [3 clu per side with 1tr on each edge] Row 4 ch3, 3tr in st at base of ch3, *3tr in next sp be­tween clu; rep from * to 2ch-sp, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, **3tr in next sp be­tween clu; rep from ** to end, fin­ish­ing with 4tr in top of 3ch, turn [4 clu per side with 1tr on each edge] Rows 5-9 rep Row 4 [in­creas­ing by 1 clu each side on each row] Row 10 rep Row 4 chang­ing to Yarn B on the last st Row 11 rep Row 4 chang­ing to Yarn C on the last st Row 12 rep Row 4 chang­ing to Yarn B on the last st Row 13 rep Row 4 chang­ing to Yarn C on the last st Row 14 rep Row 4 chang­ing to Yarn A on the last st Rows 15-20 rep Row 4 [20 clu per side at Row 20] Start squar­ing off Row 21 ch3, *3tr in next sp be­tween clu; rep from * to 2ch-sp, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, **3tr in next sp be­tween clu; rep from ** to end, fin­ish­ing with 1tr in top of 3ch, turn [20 clu per side] Row 22 rep Row 21 chang­ing to Yarn D on the last st Row 23 rep Row 21 chang­ing to Yarn E on the last st Row 24 rep Row 21 chang­ing to Yarn D on the last st Row 25 rep Row 21 chang­ing to Yarn E on the last st Row 26 rep Row 21 chang­ing to Yarn D on the last st Row 27 rep Row 21 chang­ing to Yarn A on the last st Rows 28-33 rep Row 21

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