HOW TO MAKE A PUFFA BAG
MATERIALS 112 x 40cm (441/ x 15¾") 8 lightweight waterresistant fabric (we used Showerproof Lining in pale lilac from www. raystitch.co.uk) (Fabric 1) 112 x 40cm (441/ x 15¾") 8 foam interfacing 54 x 37cm (21¼ x 145/ 8") quilting weight plain cotton fabric (Fabric 2) 180cm (707/ 8") matching webbing, 3cm (1¼") wide 250g polyester toy stuffing Matching sewing thread Tape measure We’re nowhere near ready to hang up our duvet coats yet, so we’re taking the trend to the next level and sewing a puffer-style bag. This quilted wonder is waterproof and roomy, as well as delightfully squishy. Athleisure? You betcha, and then some – one jumbo tote worthy of pilates classes and burger dates alike. Use your favourite pastel tone du jour to keep it up to date.
01 Cut two 40 x 56cm (15¾ x 221/ 8") pieces from Fabric 1 and two 40 x 56cm (15¾ x 221/ 8") pieces from the foam interfacing. For the lining, cut two 37 x 54cm (145/ x 21¼") 8 pieces from Fabric 2.
02 Lay out the interfacing pieces in landscape position and lay a Fabric 1 piece on top of each one, right side (RS) up. Pin along the top long edge of each pair, about 0.5cm (¼") down. Measure 8cm (31/ 8") down from the pinned edge and pin all the way across the fabric, using several pins to form a row. Tailor’s chalk isn’t effective on water-resistant fabric, so this is an alternative way to mark the lines you’ll sew. Pin holes may show in the water-resistant fabric, so be careful to pin exactly where you’ll sew, or where holes won’t be visible. Pin another parallel line 7cm (2¾") below the first, a line 7cm (2¾") below that, then a final line 7cm (2¾") below that.
03 Sew along the pinned lines, removing the pins as you go. Also remove the pins from the top edge.
04 Trim the bottom and sides so the finished panels measure 37 x 54cm (145/ x 21¼"). Lay the two 8 panels RS up, in landscape position, making sure the 8cm (31/ 8") wide strip is at the top.
05 Cut two 90cm (35½") lengths of webbing. Pin one end of one strip 14cm (5½") in from the right hand edge of one panel, with the cut end overlapping the top edge by 2cm (¾"). Pin the other end of the strip 14cm (5½") in from the left hand edge of that panel, again, overlapping the edge by 2cm (¾"). Check the strap isn’t twisted, then repeat on the second panel.
06 Place a Fabric 2 lining piece on top of each Fabric 1 panel with RS together, then pin along the top edge. Carefully remove the pins from the webbing and repin back through all the layers, keeping the straps in place. Sew along the
pinned edge on both pieces, 1cm ( 3 /8") down, then open them out so the lining and the outer are RS up.
07 Lightly stuff each of the rows between the stitching on the bag outer using the toy stuffing. Use a ruler or similar to push the stuffing down into the rows, and take your time so the stuffing is even. Leave about 4cm (15/ 8") unstuffed at the beginning and end of each row – this will make assembling the bag much easier as you won’t be sewing through thick stuffing.
08 Place the two bag lining and outer panels with RS together, matching the outer and the lining fabrics and aligning the raw edges. Pin around all four sides, making sure the webbing handles are folded in towards the centre, away from the seams.
09 Sew all the way around the edges, leaving a 12cm (4 ") gap on one edge of the lining.
10 To square the corners of the bag lining, position the fabric so the outer seams sit on top each other. Mark 7.5cm (3") up from the tip of the corner, then mark and pin a line horizontally across the seam at that point. Sew, then trim off the corner off, 1cm ( 3 /8") away from the seam, as shown. Repeat this step with the other corner of the lining and both corners of the bag outer.
11 Turn the bag RS out through the gap in the lining. Pin and sew the gap closed, then tuck the finished lining down into the bag, pushing it into the corners.
12 To finish, pin and sew 0.25cm ( 1 /8") down from the top edge of the bag, all the way around.