Take tex­tile wall art to the next level

Make woven wall art that’s beau­ti­ful and use­ful with Cath Cham­ber­lain

Mollie Makes - - CONTENTS -

Rea­son num­ber 4321 why you need to get into weav­ing: so many use­ful ap­pli­ca­tions. This woven piece is pretty with­out com­pro­mis­ing on prac­ti­cal­ity – when empty it’s tex­tile art, but start fill­ing those deep pock­ets and it’s a ca­pa­cious or­gan­iser.

Pack yours with yarns and craft notions, or hang it on the back of the bed­room or bath­room door to stash those bits and bobs that never quite seem to have a home.

Knot Yarn A to the top left-hand

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side of the loom and cre­ate the warp by tightly wind­ing the yarn up and down around the notches. Con­tinue un­til it mea­sures 43cm (17") wide and then knot again.

Start with tabby stitch. Thread

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Yarn B on the yarn nee­dle and weave over and un­der the warp threads, al­ter­nat­ing from row to row, weav­ing over the warps you went un­der and un­der the warps you went over. Re­peat un­til this mea­sures 6cm (23/ 8").

Us­ing tabby stitch in Yarn C,

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weave one more warp thread on

each row con­sec­u­tively un­til the sec­tion mea­sures 9cm (35/ 8").

Tabby stitch in Yarn B as be­fore,

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con­sec­u­tively re­duc­ing one warp

thread at a time un­til it meets the Yarn C sec­tion at the point shown.

Next, add the rya knots. Cut

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two 10cm (4") lengths of Yarn D and fold in half. Lay the cen­tre over the first two warp threads, then pass the left side un­der and around the left-hand warp thread, and the right side un­der and around the right-hand warp thread. Pull tightly to se­cure the knot. Add 15 of these here and 14 above the Yarn C tabby stitch sec­tion. Trim the ends.

With a 1m (393/ 8") length of Yarn

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E, add a sec­tion of soumak. Start by pass­ing un­der two warp threads and back over, then un­der the next three warp threads and back over the last two, pulling se­curely af­ter each stitch. Work each row in the op­po­site di­rec­tion. Work five rows, un­til 5cm (2") in height. Us­ing Yarn

B, fill the rest of the pocket piece with tabby stitch un­til the weav­ing reaches 17cm (6¾") in height.

Tie all the yarn ends to­gether on

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the back and trim. Re­move the piece from the loom by cut­ting the warp threads 10cm (4") above it, then tie them to­gether and tuck them into the back of the piece. To cre­ate the three pock­ets, re­peat Steps 1-7 twice more. For the mid­dle pocket, add a sec­tion of tabby stitch in Yarn C at the bot­tom, start the usual Yarn C tri­an­gu­lar sec­tion com­ing in from the left not the right, and use Yarn G in­stead of Yarn E for the soumak. For the third pocket, use Yarn F in­stead of Yarn E for the soumak.

To as­sem­ble the pock­ets, cut

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three 43cm x 17cm (17 x 6¾") pieces of Fabric 2. Pin each one along the top back edge of the woven pock­ets and sew.

Cut two 86 x 40cm (337/ x 15¾")

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8

pieces of Fabric 1. Place the woven pock­ets onto one of the pieces with the first pocket 12cm (4¾") down from the top. Leave 5cm (2") in be­tween each pocket – there should be 9cm (35/ 8") be­tween the last pocket and the bot­tom of the fabric. Pin the bot­tom edges of the pock­ets to the fabric and sew.

With this piece right side (RS)

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up, place the se­cond piece of Fabric 1 on top, RS down, and pin to­gether the two long edges with a 1.5cm ( /8") seam al­lowance. Sew

5 along the pinned edges, then turn the hang­ing RS out.

Cre­ate a chan­nel for the

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bamboo at the top and bot­tom of the piece by fold­ing the fabric to the back by 1cm ( /8") and press­ing.

3

Sew a few stitches ver­ti­cally at ei­ther end to stop the bamboo from catch­ing. Turn over again by 3cm (1¼"), then pin and sew close to the folded edge.

Thread the bamboo pieces

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through the chan­nels, in­sert­ing the longer one at the top. Cut a 50cm (19¾") length of Yarn H and tie tightly to ei­ther end of the top bamboo piece for hang­ing.

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