HOW TO MAKE A CROCHET FREAKSHAKE
■ Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran, 100% acrylic, 184m/201yd per 100g, one ball each in Candyfloss Pink (249) (Yarn A), Paper White (200) (Yarn B), Coffee Bean (210) (Yarn C), Light Caramel (208) (Yarn D), Bubblegum Pink (250) (Yarn E), Rose Red (213) (Yarn F) and Neon Green (259) (Yarn G)
■ 5mm (UK 6, US H/8) crochet hook
■ Yarn needle
■ Two stitch markers ■ Two 10 x 10cm (4 x 4") pieces of cardboard ■ Fibrefill toy stuffing ■ Multi-coloured seed beads
■ Sewing needle ■ Thread to match Yarn C and Yarn E
■ Paper straw ■ Wooden skewer
■ Hot glue gun
Tension is not important for this project, but the stitches should be dense enough so the stuffing doesn’t show through
ss slip stitch
dc double crochet
htr half treble
tr treble crochet
yrh yarn round hook
dc2tog double crochet 2 together – (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook
BLO work stitch through back loop only
FLO work stitch through front loop only
Approx. 18cm (71/ 8") tall excluding doughnut and strawberries x 14cm (5 ") wide including cup handle x 9cm (35/ 8") deep More is more when it comes to freakshakes, and we’re obsessed with this decadent crochet version complete with whipped cream, strawberries and a sprinkled doughnut. It’s one tasty project.
Use the eraser tip of a pencil to help push polyester stuffing into small shapes like the strawberry. When used strategically and sparingly, hot glue can be really helpful in crochet projects.
When working in rounds, the RS of the work should always show on the outside. When sewing on embellishments, like the chocolate sauce, icing or strawberry leaves, you don’t have to sew through each st. Ch1 at the start of a row/round does not count as a st.
Using Yarn A, ch3 and ss to 1st ch to form a ring
Round 1 ch1, 4dc into the ring [4 sts]
Round 2 (3dc in next st) 4 times, ss to 1st dc to join [12 sts]
Round 3 ch1, *3dc in next st, 2dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [20 sts]
Round 4 ch1, *2dc in next st, 4dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [24 sts]
Round 5 ch1, *3dc in next st, 5dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [32 sts]
Round 6 ch1, *2dc in next st, 7dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [36 sts]
Round 7 ch1, *3dc in next st, 8dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [44 sts]
Round 8 ch1, *2dc in next st, 10dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [48 sts]
Round 9 ch1, *3dc in next st, 11dc; repeat from * to last st, ss to 1st dc to join [56 sts]
Place a 30cm (117/ 8") length of scrap yarn here to mark the corner
Rounds 10-31 1dc in each st around, do not join at the end of each round, at the end of Round 31, make a straight vertical line with the scrap yarn to ensure you’re ending the round on the same corner you started at in Round 10 (you may have to work a few more sts), ss to next st to join.
Break yarn, leaving an arm-length of yarn for sewing later and weave in other end
Using Yarn A, ch3 and ss to 1st ch to form a ring. Repeat Rounds 1-9 of cup to make a square Break yarn and weave in both ends
Using Yarn B, ch17
Row 1 miss 1st ch, 16dc, turn [16 sts]
Row 2 ch1, *2dc in next st, 3dc; repeat from * to last st, turn [20 sts]
Row 3 ch1, *2dc in next st, 4dc; repeat from * to last st, turn [24 sts]
Rows 4- 6 ch1, 1dc in each st to end, turn
Row 7 ch1, *dc2tog, 4dc; repeat from * to last st, turn [20 sts]
Row 8 ch1, *dc2tog, 3dc; repeat from * to last st [16 sts]
Break yarn leaving a 40cm (15 ") tail and weave in other end Form a tube by whipstitching Row 8 to the bottom of Row 1, stuffing the cup handle as you sew. Knot to secure, but don’t trim the yarn tail.
Cut two cardboard squares slightly smaller than the cup base. Place one square inside the top of the cup and fill the cup with stuffing. If the cardboard looks like it’s stretching the crochet, take it out and trim it to size. Place the second square on top of the stuffing, making sure the corners of both squares line up. Place the cup base on top of the cardboard. The yarn tail on the cup is where you’ll start sewing at a cup base corner. Pin to secure the cup base in place before whipstitching it to the cup. Before sewing the last side closed, add a little more stuffing if needed. Pin the cup handle to the cup and use the yarn tail to sew into place. Weave in other end. Use Yarn B to sew the other end of the handle.
This piece is a parallelogram with angled sides, not a true rectangle Using Yarn B, ch25
Work every row in BLO
Row 1 miss 1st ch from hook, 2dc in next ch, 21dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 2 ch1, dc2tog, 21dc, 2dc in last st, turn [24 sts]
Row 3 ch1, 2dc in 1st st, 21dc, dc2tog, turn [24 sts]
Rows 4-28 repeat Rows 2 and 3 another 12 times then repeat Row 2 once
Break yarn leaving an arm-length of yarn for sewing Whipstitch Row 28 to the bottom of Row 1 to form a tube. Tie the yarn to secure. Weave the yarn in and out through every other row around the opening of the tube, then pull to close. Tie to secure. Poke the needle into the top of the closed end of the tube and bring the yarn tail to the other side, where you can sew closed the other tube opening in the same way. First add a little stuffing to maintain the whipped cream’s poofy shape. To make one side of the whipped cream – which will end up being the top – a bit pointy, weave yarn and needle 1cm ( / ")
8 below the centre of the swirl, and all the way around, pulling tightly to close and pinch the tip. Tie off and weave in yarn ends.
This also makes up the rim of the cup. Using Yarn C, ch44, ss to 1st ch to form a ring, making sure there are no twists in the ch
Round 1 ch1, 1dc in each ch, ss to 1st dc to join [44 sts]
Rounds 2-5 ch1, 1dc in each st, ss to 1st dc to join
Round 6 Work this round in FLO, ch1, *2dc in next st, 4dc; repeat from * another 7 times, 4dc, ss to 1st st to join [52 sts]
Round 7 *ch6, miss 1st 3 ch from hook, 3tr, miss next 2 sts on Round 6, 2ss, ch9, miss 1st 3 ch from hook, 6tr, miss next 2 sts on Round 6, 2ss, ch13, miss 1st 3 ch from hook, 10tr, miss next 2 sts on Round 6, 2ss; repeat from * another 3 times, ch6, miss 1st 3 ch from hook, 3tr, miss next 2 sts on Round 6, 2ss [13 drips] Break yarn leaving an arm-length of yarn for sewing later and weave in other end
Made in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds and use a stitch marker to indicate the start of each round Using Yarn D, ch18, ss to 1st ch to form ring, making sure there are no twists in the ch
Round 1 ch1, 1dc in each ch [18 sts] Round 2 *2dc in next st, 2dc;