Money Week

Wine of the week: a tremendous­ly juicy and spicy fellow

- 2019 Bila-Haut, M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France Matthew Jukes Wine columnist

£12.25, Kenrick’s, kenrickswi­nes.com, 07311-020125

I love high-quality, independen­t wine retailers, which is not surprising because this métier is in my blood. I started working in the wine business in 1987 in a brilliant indie in southwest London, and I was fortunate to learn from one of the finest palates in the country. The independen­t wine merchant, the butcher, baker, cheesemong­er and other genuinely passionate and knowledgea­ble small businesses form the heart of the community. I spotted a new arrival in Fulham last year, and I finally managed to pop in last week in mystery shopper mode, and what a treat it was.

I earwigged the manager talking to another customer through a couple of wines, and it was clear he knew each inside out. I bought five bottles and each was a delight. My featured hearty red is a tremendous­ly juicy and spicy fellow with a wicked price tag. In addition, 2020 First Flight Syrah Graeme & Julie Bott (£28.65) is a spectacula­r Côte-Rôtie tastealike; 2019 Cline Old

Vine Zinfandel (£15.50) is a fragrant, aromatic, super-juicy zin with masses of charm and a liquid velvet texture; and the 2020 Laureatus Albariño Rías Baixas (£16.30) shows what this beguiling white grape can do when you trade up from a ten quid high-street wine to a genuine, artisanal creation. The 2019 Domaine Mas Barrau, Cabernet Franc (£10.45) is a bargain-priced, organic beauty, pulsing with energy and style. Kenrick’s is a magnificen­t addition to the wine skyline and I urge you to load up.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the Internatio­nal Wine & Spirit Competitio­n’s Communicat­or of the Year (MatthewJuk­es.com)

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