Wine of the week: breathtaking wines from Greece and Cyprus

2020 Canava Chrissou, Tselepos, Santorini, Greece

£33.00, cavaspiliadis.uk

I arrived at Le Comptoir Robuchon (6 Clarges St, London, W1) at 11.45 to introduce the sommelier to my range of alcohol-free Jukes Cordialities. My introduction was made by a mutual friend who sells the elite rosés from Château d’Esclans. My friend was delayed by an hour, and I found myself talking to a delightful lady at the bar, who turned out to be an old wine trade contact who was now selling fantastic Greek and Cypriot wines. The three of us ended up enjoying the most remarkable lunch I can remember while tasting her wines.

My featured assyrtiko is the finest example of this crystalline, spellbindingly floral grape I have tasted. It was such a shock I’m still reeling. And 2017 Vouni Panayia The Woman in the Wine Press, Cyprus (£42), made from the ultra-rare white grape morokanella was a mineralsoaked, balletic, drama-packed white with so much class it left me breathless, while 2017 Ktima Driopi Reserve Agiorgitiko Nemea (£24) is the smartest Greek red I have tasted. In just three wines, my vinous horizons were elevated immeasurably, and I implore you to seek these wines out. This incredible tasting was set against a backdrop of mind-blowingly delicious dishes. The layering of flavours, delicacy and detail of delivery were profoundly moving, and I cannot wait to return. Ah, the sea bream carpaccio with espelette chilli, white asparagus, langoustine ravioli and John Dory dishes, among others, were all epic.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).