Wine of the week: a white to set pulses racing

2021 Fletcher, C21 Chardonnay, Langhe, Piemonte, Italy

(£27.50, henningswine.co.uk)

Australian winemaker Dave Fletcher has made his home in the heart of one of the greatest wine regions in the world, Piemonte, where he makes an immaculate portfolio of wild wines. His base is a stunningly renovated train station in Barbaresco, under which he has installed his small but perfectly formed wine cellar. I cannot imagine a finer work/home set-up.

Until recently, Dave made his eponymous wines on his days off; his main job being winemaker at Piemonte Titan, Ceretto. He now concentrates on his Fletcher label, and I tasted the three wines mentioned here late last year while researching my Piemonte Report. A Guy Pierce-lookalike, Dave cuts a dash around the hills of Barbaresco, and I always love his sensitively made wine. Unlike many in the region, his prices are unusually fair, too. 2020 Nebbiolo d’Alba (£25), made from 90% Roero fruit and 10% young Barbaresco vines, shows thrilling vibrancy with a buoyant texture that is cut with electrifying acidity and crunchy tannins. And UK importer Hennings is about to move from 2018 to 2019 Barbaresco Recta Pete (£37.95), made from 60% Roncaglie and 40% Starderi fruit. My chosen wine, however, is a white. Pure, beeswaxy, gloriously classy and blessed with 35% new French oak, this magnificent white will confound the senses and get the pulse racing.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).