ISLAND ODYSSEY
Fiona and Frank seek out the hot spots from the Mama Mia! movie in the second part of their Grecian adventure
Frank and Fiona Walker continue their leisurely exploration of the Greek islands with an all-singing, all-dancing trip to Skiathos, the setting for the smash hit movie musical Mamma Mia!
Ever since we saw the movie Mama Mia! we’ve wanted to visit the island of Skopelos, where most of it was filmed. And here we are at last, heading over the calm seas from bustling Skiathos to her more sedate sister island in the Sporades. We meander gently along the coast, marvelling at the many white coves so popular with the tour boats, and then nose into an almost perfect anchorage at Panormos. It is as beautiful as any that we have been to over the past six years, and I have my first swim of the season, carrying the stern ropes ashore, aware that there will be many more to come and hoping that for most of them the water will be a tad warmer than it is today! A handful of boats share our anchorage and a few more yachts come in as dusk shades the sky, but despite the company, it is a tranquil evening and without a breath of wind to ripple the sea.
In the morning, the peace of this little creek is disturbed only when the day trip boats from Skiathos briefly putter in, their music systems invariably blaring out tunes from the Abba musical! Much as we already love Panormos, we are eager to see the rest of the island, especially Skopelos Town, so after a second night, we’re on the move again, grazing along the coast and nudging into potential anchorages along the way. Near the tiny port of Agnondas, there is a distinctive low headland jutting out to sea, with just one tree on it. It’s instantly recognisable as the Our Last Summer scene, although today isn’t as bright and cloudless as the day on which that song was filmed. Despite the grey overhead, the sea is mirror calm and before long, we glide through the channel separating Skopelos from the smaller isle of Alonnisos and reach the picturesque main port, where we are welcomed by the harbourmaster, Costas, and swiftly made fast, beam to, along the wall. The town here is picturesque and so far east, the Turkish influence is obvious, combined with
the distinctive Greek architecture. Many of the little houses haphazardly tiered above the harbour have wooden balconies, some almost meeting one another across a zig-zag of narrow alleyways and small flights of steps that create a confusing maze for visitors. Dominating the whole scene is a beautiful church facing out to sea, bright white against the sky and water, the steep staircase from the port to this place of worship constantly busy with curious tourists, old Greek ladies dressed entirely in black and clerics with their long gowns and flowing beards.
MUSICAL FOOTSTEPS
We are eager to explore from land as well as by sea, so we hire a quad bike and venture along the cliff road that leads to the islet topped with a tiny church, also featured in Mama Mia! The views are breathtaking. The wake from a lone motor boat leaves a milelong V on the shimmering water and distant islands are gently blurred into a violet heat haze. Clear turquoise waters lap against thumbnails of white beach in coves far below and the scent in the air is a heady mixture of pine and eucalyptus, olive and orange blossom, warm earth and wild herbs. Bees hum lazily on the balmy air, gathering nectar to make the honey for which the island is renowned and dragonflies alight briefly on colourful blooms before continuing on their way. Here, poppies, sea thistle, thrift and broom overflow from the hedgerows, whilst the ageless olive groves we pass, their silver-leafed trees bent low by seasons of strong winds, are carpeted in a foamy wave of Queen Anne’s Lace.
We’ve visited over 20 Greek islands in our odyssey so far but we both agree that Skopelos is the most beautiful we’ve ever seen. Despite being the location for a major movie, it remains unspoilt, utterly charming and very welcoming. At the familiar rocky outcrop crowned with a white church, we climb the 200 steps from base to top and arrive, out of breath and thirsty, to a surprising disappointment. Although we’re in the right setting, the church is not the one in the movie; a cinematic conjuring trick has transformed this rather drab and uninspiring little church into a larger and far prettier version. We giggle at this artistic licence and I take a load of photographs to record our being here, although the truth is that we’re just putting off the moment when we have to descend the sheer, rickety staircase that will take us back down the steep edge of the cliff.
As we pause for breath, we glimpse, little more than a stone’s throw away, what can only be described as the perfect anchorage. A trio of rocks create a calm, turquoise oasis and Frank immediately earmarks it as the site for a future visit.
Two days later, we’re in the same location, but this time on Zaffina, and edging into that very cove. Frank brings her in gently and we check the anchorage for any obstacles before he spins her around and reverses into position. I have ropes ready on each stern quarter and wait for him to bring us as close as safely possible before I make my swim to shore. But there’s something in the water, and a close inspection shows that it’s definitely not something I am prepared to swim through. A large vessel, quite probably the ferry that we saw passing a short while ago, has emptied its entire black tank nearby and what should be clear, sparkling water now has a film of effluence and macerated refuse muddying it, and there is more flowing in with every wave. We’re both nauseated and disgusted that anyone could think of dropping this much sewage into the water. The moment is spoilt and we just want to leave, but before we depart, we lower the dinghy and speed off to warn the trio of anchored yachts we passed near the islet.
We debate venturing west along the coast to another stunning anchorage we saw from the land but a slight wind has come up and we decide instead to skip over to Alonissos and find a sheltered site near the port, where we tie to rocks and enjoy the afternoon sunshine. But it’s a bit too near the port; every time a ferry goes past – and they are surprisingly frequent – we are hit by a mountain of wake. From the galley, the noise of glassware and crockery threatening to explode from the cupboards is too much for me, and eventually we move on to find a more secluded spot for the night, where our only company is a couple of goats.
Kyra Panagia is a small island off the northern tip of Alonissos and according to the pilot book, it has a superb anchorage. And so this is our destination as the sun rises high into a cloudless sky the following morning. The entrance is a narrow keyhole passage, which then opens into a wide expanse of sheltered water, with several smaller branches in which to anchor. This is a well-known conservation area and various rare species of bird and marine life
thrive here, but sadly the Mediterranean Monk seals that we had hoped to glimpse fail to appear. There are a surprising number of yachts already in situ but no other motor boats, and we wonder again why so many people fail to take advantage of these shoulder months which are often the best in the Med.
We have one more night at anchor back in Alonnisos before heading for the tiny port and find one of those perfect one-boat anchorages where you can tie to rocks on either side of the bay and bob gently, stern to the beach, in complete solitude. With a sandy bottom and just a spit of beach, this little cove is perfection, and even the internet fails to reach us. It is only the fact that the wind is due to rise that persuades us to move into the nearby harbour, where we are guided by a member of the port police to a spot on the quay that is several feet too short for Zaffina! The next place we’re offered is near the ferry dock, where we drop anchor and tie on stern-to, despite knowing we’ll get a regular buffeting of wake.
ROCK AND ROLL
We want to visit the old town, perched on top of a nearby hill and reputed to be very pretty, and in the morning we get a taxi up to the chora. It is indeed pretty, but it would be even prettier if it wasn’t for the huge black clouds rolling in, and after a brief stroll around, we run for shelter as the heavens open and the wind springs up from nowhere to lash the hilltop. This blow has come early as it wasn’t expected until tonight and now we have to make a decision: do we stay in the mediocre shelter of the port or make a dash back to the more substantial harbour at Skopelos? Hoping this is a brief squall before the main storm comes in, we decide to sail back to Skopelos but our first problem is the anchor. The yacht that came in after us clearly pulled our anchor out of position when they set theirs, and now the two are entangled. The occupants are not on board as we try to separate the two chains, but the wind is pushing us around. Eventually a fishing boat comes to our assistance and with much gesticulating, we are released.
Our problems aren’t yet over! When we turn into the narrow channel separating Alonnisos and Skopelos, the waves are daunting. Zaffina is heroic as she battles through, shipping swimming pool-loads of water down the side decks and bravely trying to keep her nose up but from time to time, we are hit by a particularly steep wave which rolls us horribly as we traverse it. A cupboard door flies open and wine bottles shoot across the saloon, the fruit bowl flies off the table and even the computer is thrust from the grip of its mat on to the floor. Surprisingly, nothing is broken but I stand ready in the galley in case of further escapees while Frank steers a difficult course from the lower helm.
Thank goodness it is such a short distance between the islands; the only good thing that can be said for the trip is that it is brief, and within 40 minutes we are back in Skopelos Town and tying on to the berth we left less than a week ago. A couple of hours later, the wind drops away again for a few hours and we wish we had delayed our crossing until the afternoon. Late in the evening, however, when it has risen to gale force and we’re being whipped by torrential rain, we are simply relieved we’re securely tied!