These boats are one of the true hand-built production boats still around so you can expect traditional build techniques inside a tough hand-laid GRP hull and deck.
Structural GRP issues should not be a problem, except on the older examples were the dreaded osmotic blistering may occur, but do not expect to find any stress cracking or star crazing on the tough semi-displacement hulls. These have integral keels for added strength and well-rounded bilges for a soft ride in head seas.
Internally, good old fashioned BS1088 plywood is used on the engineroom bulkheads and sole boards with solid teak joinery work, but do check the condition of the traditional tung varnish (or oil) as this can prove an expensive and time consuming job if refurbishment is needed. Areas which are prone to degradation are around the expansive cabin window glass.
Most decks are teak-laid using solid ½in teak planking. Again, depending on the age of the vessel, these can suffer from surface wear and in bad cases, fastening failure. Look out for proud caulking and lost screw plugs.
Machinery-wise, you pay your money and make your choice, but I would favour the lower-powered option any day and tick along at around 10 knots to maximise comfort and efficiency. If you feel the need to go faster, the largest engine options are good for a potential top speed of around 25 knots.
All in all it’s a fine boat, British-built but expensive, which is reflected in the high residual values.
The big diesel engines are tucked under the saloon