BOAT CUISINE

For boaters venturing to Scotland’s Western Isles, a culinary feast awaits. Phil Sampson reports

STORNOWAY, OUTER HEBRIDES

In commissioning this series of boat-friendly restaurant reviews, MBY editor Hugo insisted on a wide geographical spread. So, to crib a well-used line from Bill Petrie, the inimitable narrator of TV’S Deadliest Catch, 7,145 miles due East of Dutch Harbor, Alaska (and 700 miles north of Southampton), lies Digby Chick, the jewel in the crown of Outer Hebrides’ eateries.

Now, Digby Chick is an odd name for a restaurant, so my first question to proprietor and chef James Mackenzie was how did the name come about?

“Just before we opened, around 20 years ago, we were struggling for a name,” explains James. “One night, looking through a book on Canada, I stumbled upon the town of Digby in Nova Scotia where they smoke herrings which they call ‘Digby Chicks’. That struck a chord with me. I could see links to Scotland and the fish for which our islands are renowned; I thought it fitted perfectly. Admittedly, a bottle of wine was also involved, but my mind was made up. To begin with, people said what a dreadful name. But now, they say it’s great – hopefully our food has something to do with that!”

It certainly does, James. I was recommended the restaurant by two discerning born-and-bred locals, both of whom showered praise upon the establishment, and rightly so. Located around the corner from the quayside

Crown Hotel, Digby Chick is housed in a modest petrol-blue-painted building. Inside, the decor is clean and modern, and the staff friendly and attentive. At £16.50 for two courses, the fixed-price lunch menu offers great value for money and boasts complex dishes such as fillet of Minch hake baked in ginger and lemongrass butter served with coriander kedgeree, carrot puree, green beans and shallots.

For dinner, three menus are presented; table d’hôte, steak and à la carte. The latter, with its choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes, provides a mouth-watering range of options. The emphasis is on fine Scottish produce throughout, as evidenced by the loin of venison accompanied by, amongst other treats, the succulent black pudding for which Stornoway is renowned.

Rounding off a thoroughly enjoyable dining experience is the dessert menu, with dishes ranging from cinnamon poached pear to home-made ice creams.