BOAT CUISINE

Could this be the most dramatic setting of any eatery in the British Isles? Phil Sampson reports on a café purpose-built for boaters

RIVER EXE CAFÉ

While there are a number of floating restaurants dotted around the UK – Trinity’s in Haslar or the Best Dressed Crab in Bembridge to name but two – virtually all of them are connected one way or another to terra firma. One notable exception is the River Exe Café, which bobs around in the middle of the Exe Estuary and (with the possible exception of wild swimmers, parachutists and the like) is accessible only by boat.

Described as Devon’s only floating gastro shed, the River Exe Café is the brainchild of David Foa and Paul Craven. The back story goes something like this: David owned a water ski and wakeboard school and Paul, a marine engineer, looked after David’s boats. David was searching for a clubhouse, which ended up with two former British Waterways dump hoppers being acquired and welded together to form a twin-hulled floating lump on top of which a shed was plonked. Hey presto! Not only did David have a clubhouse of sorts, but he could also put it exactly where he wanted it – on the water right by the ski lanes.

“In 2011, our first year, we started offering a bit of food; mussels and burgers, that kind of thing, nothing fancy,” says David. “But we were inundated with requests and it grew from there. I was doing the cheffing, and we spent the next six years tweaking the formula and adding things like a former mussel farm flotation unit to give us more space. New for 2021 is a second storey addition, which houses a bar.”

While the premises operates its own water taxis to ferry guests to and from Exmouth Marina, visiting boaters are welcome to berth alongside. So popular is this that today the café has a reserved outside area with four picnic benches just for boaters. These are provided on a first-come-first-served basis, but should you arrive to find all seats taken, food can be delivered direct to your boat – how’s that for service?! The River Exe Café was brought to our attention by MBY forum member, John Nuttall. “The café is unique, being moored in the middle of the river,” says John. “My favourite dishes are either the seafood platter or fish and chips. It’s a small menu but the food is always fresh and delicious.”

The café has won multiple golden Diners’ Choice gongs at the annual Taste of the West awards. It appears a decade of dedication has paid off. With no mains water or electricity, and everything coming in by boat, building a waterborne business must have been a challenge, but David, Paul and the crew at the River Exe Café seem to have it sorted. I just wonder how the postman delivers the mail…

VERDICT Dining with a difference is the River Exe Café’s claim – and with great food served in a stunning setting, who could argue with that?

MBY RATING ★★★★★

BASED ON food, location and value for money. COST £60 for a two-course meal for two with wine TIMES Tuesday–sunday 1230–2100, Closed Monday CONTACT 07761 116103; www.riverexecafe.com