BOAT CUISINE

Phil Sampson samples a restaurant which brings an authentic taste of Italian rustic charm to the Isle of Wight

Looking back, my earliest recollection of an Italian restaurant dates back to the early 1970s and a trip to Sicily. Located in faded premises at the less-than-salubrious end of Palermo’s docks, our host felt the need to go ahead to ask if women were allowed in. The restaurateur must have agreed as we were soon being treated to a veritable feast served on a plastic tablecloth. With empty Chianti bottles swinging from the ceiling, fanned by the Mediterranean breeze, our steaks were presented to the table before cooking to ensure we approved of the maître d’s choice of cut. Nobody dared disagree with him. The experience has since coloured my mental image of Italian restaurants. I’m hopelessly trapped in the romance of it all – somewhere between culinary hedonism and Goodfellas – Dante would understand.

So it was that we ventured into Ristorante Michelangelo, which occupies a prime position on Ryde seafront, a short walk from the marina. In my mind, I could already hear Bob Dylan’s mob ballad Joey playing as we were fussed to our seats by a small throng of welcoming Italian waitresses. A broad arch led to the main saloon where dark wood tables awaited, flanked by potted plants mounted in wrought iron frames. It was pure, rustic Italian charm. Outside – I swear this is true – a large man dressed in black pulled up in a Mercedes and began rummaging in the boot. Just like Joey, I wondered, had they come to blow us away…?

Happily not, and soon our waitress returned with drinks and an order pad. We both opted for the seafood soup, described as a ’flavourful blend of crab meat, prawns, mussels, octopus and squid gently cooked with tomato, white wine and garlic.‘ For mains, it would be capesante alla Veneziana – scallops served on a bed of spinach – and a traditional spaghetti carbonara. Yum, sounded great.

The seafood soup was truly something special. Unlike so many out-of-a-jar fish soups, this one had undoubtedly been prepared in-house. Its taste and texture was excellent and the seafood abundant, in quantity and in terms of the variety of species on display.

Our mains initially went a little bit awry due to the side orders going awol. Some good old-fashioned chaos followed. Apologising profusely while shooting reprimanding glances at her order pad, so apparently grief-stricken was our waitress that we too ended up apologising for any distress caused.

Amends were made and we set about our meals. While both choices were freshly cooked, well presented and thoroughly satisfying, they could not quite match up to the starters. Our meal had peaked early – the seafood soup really was the catch of the day.

VERDICT A great location and an authentic Italian experience make Ristorante Michelangelo a classic well worth visiting.

MBY RATING ★★★★★

BASED ON food, ambience, value for money COST £90 for two, based on a three-course dinner and a bottle of wine.

TIMES 1000-2200, with lunch served 1200-1500 and dinner 1700-2200. Closed Wednesdays.

CONTACT Tel: 01983 811966 www.ristorantemichelangelo.co.uk