THE WATERFRONT
There’s a good reason why the Scottish Fisheries Museum is based in Anstruther on the East Neuk of Fife, for this picturesque coastal port once landed, processed and traded more fish than anywhere else in Scotland. While fishing is still important to the town, Anstruther has today developed into a destination attracting holidaymakers and boaters from far and wide.
With 400 metres of pier-side berthing and 100 pontoon berths available, the harbour is a busy and bustling place throughout the season. Accordingly, the area offers a number of attractive dining options, many of which offer a selection of freshly caught, local fish.
Our choice for lunch was The Waterfront, a quayside eatery with pole position views over the harbour. Modest in appearance from the outside, inside the restaurant is warm and welcoming, its dark wood furniture contrasting harmoniously with the light amber wooden floor. The saloon is bright, but not over lit, and its tables arranged in a way which maximises the available space without crowding guests together. All in all, it’s a very well thought out, comfortable, relaxing environment in which to enjoy a meal.
While there are several meat options on the card, we felt it would be churlish to ignore the town’s fishing heritage, so opted for that most traditional of Scottish fish dishes, Cullen Skink, as our starter. The owners of The Waterfront also operate two fish shops locally, and they obviously know their, er, onions, as their Cullen Skink was unlike any other we have tasted before. Uplifting is the word I would use to describe it; melt-in-themouth smoked haddock bathed in a light creamy broth, with the onions and potatoes – which so often take over the dish – kept decidedly in check. Our bowls scraped dry, we were set for the mains to come…
For me, it was fisherman’s pie, and for Mrs S, the smoked haddock and spinach lasagne. The pie – a mix of fresh and smoked haddock, prawns and salmon encased by a grilled mashed potato topping – was a great lunchtime choice.
The fish tasted as if it had just been landed and its accompaniments, red cabbage and pureed carrot and swede, made for an inspired choice of sides. The lasagne was also excellent; a rich dish, beautifully crafted, and bursting with flavour. Served in an attractive cast iron skillet, it was accompanied by garlic bread and a garnish of rocket.
If I were to pick fault with anything it would be limited to the butter, which arrived in those nasty little foil-wrapped pats. In my experience, these tend to be either frozen solid or turn up with molten butter running out of every seam. But that’s a small negative for a restaurant which boasts so many positives. Booking here is essential.
VERDICT An excellent restaurant with a good value menu which reflects and upholds Anstruther’s proud fishing heritage.
MBY RATING ★★★★★
BASED ON Food, ambience and value for money
COST £75 for two, based on a three-course meal and a bottle of wine
TIMES 0800 - 2200 daily
CONTACT Tel: 01333 312200 www.anstruther-waterfront.co.uk