What To Look Out For

“The RS250 and NSR250 are both getting popular and prices are up, but people do like them as original as possible,” says Fastline’s Kevin Mitchell. “There aren’t huge numbers of them around and parts can be hard to find, so, for example, if an NSR’s rear mudguard and reflector has been cut down that’s not easy to put right.”

The engines are both pretty reliable if looked after, but require top-quality synthetic oil and much tlc; ideally a minor service every 2500 miles and a major one (including new piston rings and a decoke) every 10,000. “That would cost around £1000 for the Aprilia and roughly double that for the NSR,” says Kevin. “Some NSR parts are expensive and hard to get, but we’ve got a network of contacts around the world. With either bike it’s better to get the work done than to risk an expensive blow-up.”

As with all older bikes, a machine that has not been used for ages is likely to give problems. “They’re better off being ridden, or at least if you won’t be riding it, fire it up once a month, warm it up, turn off the petrol and let it tick over till the fuel runs out,” Kevin says.

Carburettors are likely to give problems if that’s not done, and the RS250 has a particular fuel-related problem: if the tank gets hot it can swell and become impossible to fit in the frame. The RS’s power valve can also give problems. It should whine when the ignition is turned on; a stutter or grumble suggests it’s in need of servicing, and you’re risking an expensive seizure.

It’s worth checking that an

NSR250R has been derestricted from the Japanese-market limit, which on models up to the MC21 is easily done, by cutting and soldering together two wires at the CDI unit. The later MC28, with its smart-card, is more complicated. Luckily, the excellent website www.NSR250.net has details plus detailed info on all the models and updates.