A Southern Spanish Adventure in Granada and Cartagena
Bestselling author Jane Corry enjoys an unforgettably exotic experience in Spain
GRANADA
Not much further,” the guide said encouragingly as a group of us staggered up a steep hill in southern Spain.
Around us were trees and Sunday strollers in a beautiful public park. Could this really be the entrance to one of the world’s most famous Unesco World Heritage Centres?
Then we turned a corner and there it was. The Alhambra Royal City with a series of palaces and gardens built for the Sultans in the 13th century – the last Moorish foothold in Spain until 1492 which, incredibly after all these years, has retained its very special unforgettable identity.
Until visiting, I’d often muddled up Granada (two a’s) in Spain with Grenada (one a) in the Caribbean. I’d also vaguely heard of the Alhambra but didn’t really know anything about it. But as soon as I clapped eyes on the magnificent turrets, huge stone entrances with symbols carved into the rock, massive rooms with paintings on the walls and massive courtyards, I was mesmerised.
The “Generalife” gardens too were breathtaking, with cleverly-laid out beds and beautiful flowers that added to the air of peace, despite the palace’s bloody history. The Moors had built the palace as a symbol of their greatness but eventually relinquished it to the Spanish on the understanding that the distinctive Moorish features were retained. As a result, it’s like being in another country!
Yet it was the guide’s stories behind the Alhambra – from love-lorn princesses locked up from undesirable suitors, to mass family murders and betrayal – which really hooked me. At certain stages in its life, the castle was abandoned and left to decline. Homeless locals took refuge there and there are heartwarming tales of faithful retainers caring for their old masters and mistresses who had hidden in their decaying family apartments.
The Alhambra is the heart of Granada but there are also other “don’t miss” spots, including the Hammam Al AndalusAndalus, the traditional baths where I spent a blissfully indulgent afternoon, the cathedral and river walk.
Booking is essential for both a guided tour of the Alhambra and most of the hammams. We did it online. We also found our hotel this way–the highly recommended Anacapri in the heart of the city.
Take plenty of warm clothes if you’re visiting in autumn or winter, but temperatures rise steeply in the summer.
CARTAGENA
Why not make it a double-centre holiday? This historic port in the tip of southern Spain is sometimes muddled up with the Cartagena in the Caribbean. Confusingly, the two are spelt the same yet they couldn’t be more different! Our first sight when we arrived was the sun glittering over the water with boats as far as the eye could see. There was also a lovely wide promenade by the port for families to stroll along.
We took an hour-long island boat tour which was a great way to discover the history and see the sights. I recommend taking the option of stopping en route and exploring Christmas Fort with its stunning views over the sea and city. We also bought a dual ticket for the beautifully preserved Roman amphitheatre which was discovered in 1988 during construction work. Since then it has been cleverly restored with a dramatic tunnel entrance that gives you a definite “wow” feeling as you emerge over layered stone seating leading down to the central arena.
You can also take a trip to Playa Blanca on Baru Island, an hour away.
TRAVELAVEL NEWS
The nearest airport to Cartagena is MurciaSan Javier, about 30 minutes away, although a new airport in Murcia is due to open in spring. We hired a car to take us the threehour drive to Granada. If you travel out of season, you might drive through an autumn snowstorm as we did! The nearest airport to Granada is Malaga, 90 minutes away. Hotel Anacapri, Calle Joaquín Costa, 7, 18010 Granada, Spain. Phone: +34 958 22 74 77