The Free-Spirited Years
If 60s looks embraced clean lines and simplicity, 70s style was all about the drama. Designers took inspiration from around the globe with ethnic looks: kaftans, afghan coats and beaded dresses in patterned Indian fabrics filled the High Street. “Unisex” was a buzz-word: trouser suits, frilly shirts, platform shoes and Annie Hall’s androygynous look had universal appeal. Fashion looks were eclectic, encompassing a vintage Victorian vibe (think Laura Ashley and Biba) and the lurex and spangles of disco.
Chiffon was a key fabric of the 70s, well suited to night-life attire. Celebrities danced the night away in
New York’s trendy Studio 54 in Halston’s swirly silk chiffon gowns, while film legends Liz Taylor and Grace Kelly appeared goddess-like in flowing kaftans by
Madame Grès.
The Queen joined in the love affair with evening wear during the 70s, swapping her more formal gowns for bolder patterns, brighter colours and more relaxed styles. A pink and orange chiffon kaftan-style gown with an eye-catching swirly print, worn to the opening of the National Theatre in November 1976, was in tune with the times, while a spangled green column dress with matching metallic shoes worn on state visit to Helsinki the same year had glam-rocker pizzazz.
Her Majesty is meticulous in observing the customs and traditions of host countries on foreign tours and very conscious of the important role dress plays. Hardy Amies, who designed much of her wardrobe for a 1975 Japan tour, recalled her regal appearance in an Amies mauve silk coat. Mauve being an imperial colour, the Japanese took it as a tribute – a happy coincidence for Amies, though as he remarked, “I shouldn’t be surprised if the Queen had known.”
“The Queen joined in the love affair with evening wear during the 70s”