SUMMER FAVOURITES

Chefs and food writers choose the dishes, drinks and ingredients that sing of suppers in sunnier climes

It might be the melting slush of a Calippo, the puckered tentacles of just-grilled octopus served on a plastic harbourside table, or the stain of pickyour-own strawberries down a white T-shirt, but some foods simply embody summer. Many of us will have postponed trips to warmer climes, but we can still incorporate inspiration from around the world into our cooking, and plan for when we can next enjoy a meal in a far-flung, sunny spot.

With that in mind, we asked chefs and food writers about their most beloved seasonal ingredients and the summer meals they’ll never forget. Olia Hercules recalls the colossal tomatoes her mother grows in the black soil of Ukraine, sliced into thick slabs and sprinkled with salt. Jack Stein admits he’s not a fan of barbecues, but give him a lobster and some mayonnaise and he’s happy — even better, a kebab and some Hawaiian surf. Restaurateur Asma Khan, meanwhile, hankers for the hot and humid clamour of street food in Kolkata, and Spanish chef José Pizarro yearns for the joy of a cold beer as the sun sets.

So, forget the unpredictable weather and burnt sausages of a back-garden barbie — let yourself be transported to a table in the sun.