Rye revival

THE WHISKEY OF PRE-PROHIBITION USA IS BACK, THANKS TO A NEW GENERATION OF CRAFT PRODUCERS

What exactly is it?

Rye whiskey is bourbon’s boisterous older brother — tons of attitude, more intense and something of an acquired taste. Variations can be found all around the world — Canadian whiskey is often referred to generically as rye — but is at its heart a quintessentially American drink.

What’s its story?

It was the USA’S hooch of choice in the 19th century. Then Prohibition hit, and rye never recovered. It developed a reputation as bottom-shelf paintthinner due to falling production standards, allowing bourbon to usurp its standing. It’s currently experiencing a bit of a revival, though, sneaking back into the limelight thanks to the emergence of several smart new brands.

How does it taste?

Rye whiskey is generally drier, spicier and arguably more complex than bourbon. Rye is a much trickier grain to work with than corn so a lot of distillers mix it with other grains. In order to be called straight rye whiskey, the mash blend needs to be at least 51% rye, and then typically blended with other grains such as corn, wheat or barley. Proportions aren’t a direct indicator of quality, as flavour profiles swing wildly regardless, but try a 100% rye for a true expression of the spirit — Kyrö Single Malt Rye Whisky is a good example, from Iceland, of all places.

How do I drink it?

The good stuff can be sipped neat or with water. Rittenhouse, Knob Creek and Old Overholt are all widely available, while the New York Distilling Company’s Ragtime Rye is worth hunting down. In addition, almost any cocktail made with bourbon can be twisted with rye — both the old fashioned and Manhattan benefit from the dry, spicy punch. But arguably the most iconic rye cocktail is the sazerac (see box copy), first made with cognac until diminished supplies called for a rye substitution. It’s a simple but boozy concoction of rye, absinthe and bitters that tastes heavenly but hits hard.