BEEF NOODLE SOUP

Beef noodle soup arrived in Taiwan with the families of Sichuanese air force personnel, who fled China after the Chinese Civil War ended in 1949. They brought with them an affinity for spice, in the form of chilli peppers and spicy bean paste. Over the years, the dish has evolved into something more Taiwanese, marked by the addition of sugar and cherry tomatoes; Taiwanese food tends towards sweetness, and this spice-heavy, umami bomb of a dish is no exception.

There are many famous beef noodle soup shops in Taipei to choose from, and every establishment claims it’s the best — but it all comes down to personal taste. For the uninitiated, start in Xinyi District, at Muji Beef

Noodles, which uses local beef in a complex, slowcooked broth made with beef bones and a proprietary blend of spices.

If noodle quality is your priority, head to Da’an, where Shan Xi Knife Cut Noodles does thick, belt-like noodles, shaved using knives, a technique appropriated from North China. They’re served in a fantastic, spicy, anise-laden beef broth that’s heavy on the tomatoes and garnished with a heap of pickled mustard greens.

At Drbeef East Gate, near Dongmen, exquisite, thinly cut, medium-rare beef is the pièce de résistance. The beef is plated raw over noodles and cooked tableside by the sheer heat of the broth. Unlike many other noodle soup establishments, this one uses a relatively light soup base, which really helps the Taiwanese-raised beef slices shine.

Taiwanese beef noodle soup is sweet, spicy and packed with umami