National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food
COMTÉ IN GOOD TASTE
Full of complex flavours and aromas, comté’s unique taste is a marriage of time-honoured traditions and the beautiful landscape of eastern France
In the primrose-speckled meadows of France’s Jura Mountains, comté has been lovingly made for more than 1,000 years. A true product of the region, it brings together farmers, producers and sellers, each of whom plays their part in producing a versatile cheese that’s unique from one wheel to the next. Every stage of the cheese’s journey adds a new element to its incredible diversity of flavour profiles — from creamy and nutty to spicy and fruity — which has helped comté become one of France’s most beloved cheeses.
The terroir
All excellent cheeses start with the landscape, and in line with strict regulations to ensure the highest quality, comté can only be made from the milk of either Montbéliard or Simmental cows, which graze in the Jura’s picturesque pastures. The milk is rich and known for its high-protein and relatively low fat content, which makes it perfect for cheese-making. The milk from each area will have its own tasting profiles that come from factors such as soil, flora and climate, which go on to impart particular tasting notes to the cheese.
The seasons
As a cheese that’s made all year round, comté oers a surprising diversity of colours, flavours and aromas when it comes to the final product. It’s largely aected by the seasons: in the summer months, cows graze on wildflowers, fresh grass and clover, all of which give the cheese a darker, richer colour. In the winter, meanwhile, a diet of local hay will produce a lighter colour. It’s the varied diet of the cows, along with the ever-changing seasons, that means comté is a unique, ‘living’ cheese, and that no two wheels are ever the same.
The production
Once the milk is taken to the local dairy (known as a ‘fruitière’), skilled cheesemakers work their timeless magic to begin the production process. These techniques, from skimming the milk to ripening the curds, are carefully executed to ensure none of the milk’s distinctive flavour is lost. To finish the process, the wheels of cheese are aged in specially controlled cellars for a minimum of four months to allow all those complex flavours to mature — all under the watchful eye of the master aneur.