ASK THE EXPERTS

Beer in Antwerp and pub walks in Yorkshire

What are the different varieties of baharat, and can they be made at home?

Anissa Helou: The word ‘baharat’ in Arabic means ‘spices’, and unless you’re referring to Tunisian baharat (a mix of ground cinnamon and dried rose petals) the word simply describes spice mixes generally, rather than specific blends. Under the baharat umbrella you have mixtures, such as seven spice (Lebanon and Syria), b’zar (throughout the Gulf), ras el hanout (Morocco), advieh (Iran) and hawayej (Yemen). Each is made with a different combination of spices and has variations to suit particular ingredients or dishes.

Advieh can be made in several different ways. One recipe consists of rose petals, pistachio,

I’m planning a trip to Antwerp over Christmas. What local beer should I look out for?

Breandán Kearney: The uncontested beer of the city is De Koninck’s Bolleke, a 5.2% ABV amber beer known as Spéciale Belge. Enjoy it at De Ware Jacob, a traditional ‘brown cafe’ with tiled floors, wood-panelled walls and occasional Flemish poetry readings.

At Stadsbrouwerij Brasserie ‘t Pakhuis, try Den Zwarte Sinjoor, a stout of 6.7% ABV, which balances a red-fruit yeast profile with a chocolate, coffee and liquorice malt character. Sinjoor is a nickname for cinnamon, raw cane sugar, cardamom and saffron and is used in delicate rice dishes, including jewelled rice. Another contains cumin, caraway, cardamom, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, coriander and turmeric and is used in dishes such as khoresht (stew). The Lebanese version of seven spice contains ground cinnamon, coriander, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, ginger and black pepper, while in Syria galangal replaces ginger. B’zar is more like advieh, varying to suit different ingredients.

Almost all of these mixes are traditionally made at home, except for ras el hanout, which involves nearly 30 different spices and is better left to the spice merchants. Have it ground on the spot for

a more intense flavour and a longer shelf life.

Antwerpenaars dating from the Eighty Years’ War, when the occupying Spanish called inhabitants ‘señor’.

Next, head to Billie’s Bier Kafétaria, a cosy corner bar serving modern beers. Choose Antigoon, a wheat IPA of 6% ABV from The Musketeers brewery, with the coriander and orange peel spice of a classic witbier (wheat beer) and a floral hop character.

Finish at the traditional Oud Arsenaal with a Westmalle Tripel, a golden ale of 9.5% ABV, from the Province of Antwerp’s only Trappist brewery. It has notes of banana and honey and a dry, bitter finish.

Ingredients for ras el hanout

Alfons Schuhbeck Chef and author of The German Cookbook

Anissa Helou Chef and author of Feast: Food of the Islamic World

Breandán Kearney Beer expert and editor-in-chief of Belgian Smaak

Elaine Lemm Yorkshire-based food writer