Pancakes with green grape conserve

By the world’s largest walnut grove, in Arslanbob, southwest Kyrgyzstan, I stayed with Nazira, a formidable grandmother, who hugged me tightly on seeing me bedraggled on the steps to her house. Breakfast was often light, fluffy pancakes with green grape conserve. I’d eat them huddled by an electric heater if it was cold, or else outside, surrounded by birdsong. The conserve also goes with porridge, overnight oats or yoghurt.

MAKES: 1 JAR OF CONSERVE AND

AROUND 8 PANCAKES

TAKES: 1 HR 50 MINS, INCLUDING CHILLING

YOU WILL NEED

1 x 450ml jar with lid

INGREDIENTS FOR THE CONSERVE

450g seedless green grapes, rinsed 450g granulated sugar

1 lemon, juiced knob of unsalted butter

FOR THE PANCAKES

100g self-raising flour ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 large egg, beaten

150ml kefir

20g unsalted butter, melted and cooled,

plus extra for frying

METHOD

An hour or so before you start, put a plate in the freezer. To sterilise the jar, heat oven to 140C, 120C fan, gas 1. Wash the jar in warm, soapy water, then rinse well and place on a clean baking tray. Transfer to the oven for about 15 mins. To sterilise the lid and/or rubber seal, boil in a large saucepan for 5 mins, then drain and leave to air-dry on a rack. Leave the jar in the warm oven until the conserve is ready to be potted up — the jar must be hot.

Set a preserving pan or a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a low heat and gently simmer the grapes in about 5 tbsp water until they begin breaking down. Add the sugar, lemon juice and butter (which will give sheen and stop scum forming) and heat very gently.

Keep stirring to dissolve the sugar (this will take around 10 mins), ensuring it’s fully dissolved to reduce the chance of burning. Remove from the heat and break up the mixture using a hand blender or the back of a spoon, leaving a few grapes whole. Return the pan to the heat and bring the mixture to a rolling boil (you’re looking for a foaming mass of small bubbles), stirring occasionally to ensure it isn’t catching. When the bubbles have receded, take the pan off the heat.

Test for a set by dropping a little of the conserve onto your freezer-chilled plate.

Wait for it to cool, then nudge it with your fingertip; if it wrinkles when pushed, the setting point has been achieved. Allow to cool for 10 mins, then pour into the jar while still hot.

To make the pancakes, sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and a pinch of salt into a mixing bowl, then stir in the sugar. Combine the egg, kefir and melted butter in a jug, then slowly stir into the flour mixture , taking care not to over-mix the batter (you’re looking for a yogurt-like consistency — if it’s too thick, add 1 tbsp milk). Leave to stand for 5 mins.

Melt a small knob of butter in a large frying pan, then pour 3 tbsp of the batter into the pan. When bubbles form, flip the pancake and cook for 1-2 mins more. Repeat until you’ve used up all the pancake batter. Top with the conserve and serve immediately. Once opened, the conserve will keep in the fridge for a couple of weeks.

Irini Tzortzoglou

The 2019 Masterchef champion shares more than 80 easy-to-follow Greek family recipes, inspired by a childhood spent cooking the likes of moussaka and spanakorizo at her grandmother’s home in Crete. There are two whole sections dedicated to desserts, bakes and cakes. £25, Headline Publishing

Maura O’connell Foley

This recipe collection, from one of Ireland’s leading restaurateurs, is a celebration of Irish produce and a culinary career spanning more than 60 years. Centred around ingredients such as Atlantic sole, cod and prawns, the book also caters for meat-eaters and dessertlovers. £30, Maura O’connell Foley