Tinned fish

FROM SARDINES IN CHILLI TO COCKLES IN BRINE, CANNED SEAFOOD CAN BE A TRUE GOURMET INGREDIENT

Visitors to Spain and Portugal may have noticed the reverence with which the locals treat tinned fish. With their artistic packaging, Iberian ‘conserva’ brands are even part of the tourist experience, whether they’re being bought as souvenirs in Lisbon’s Conserveira de Lisboa or transformed into tapas at bars such as Barcelona’s Quimet & Quimet.

It’s a passion not historically shared by UK diners, who are inclined to regard tins of tuna or sardines as a convenience rather than a gourmet ingredient. Chef-restaurateur Mitch Tonks, of Rockfish, is hoping to alter this perception with his new tinned seafood range, sourced entirely from the waters of England’s south coast. Available nationwide (excluding the Scottish Highlands), it includes Mount’s Bay sardines in chilli; Lyme Bay mussels; and Brixham cuttlefish (therockfish.co.uk).

“Everyone should be enjoying tinned fish,” says Mitch. “It’s delicious and — with all the benefits of fresh fish preserved — it’s healthy, too. During the tinning process, the seafood is transformed into something wonderful and versatile. It’s also a fantastic way to preserve seafood, helping to support sustainability.”

Meanwhile, Manchester-based The Tinned Fish Market sells colourful tins of sustainably caught mackerel, sardines and more, available in hampers, selection boxes and monthly subscriptions (thetinnedfishmarket.com).

For ideas on cooking with canned seafood, The Magic of Tinned Fish, by Chris Mcdade (£18.99, Artisan), features recipes such as beerbattered sardines with harissa, while

Cook, by Phil Vickery (£16.99, Octopus), due to be released in February 2022, includes storecupboard recipes using tinned fish.