National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food
SAMPLE CATALONIA’S SPARKLING WINE
On the slopes of the Ordal Mountains in Penedès, Catalonia, Jesi Llopart’s family have been making sparkling wine for 135 years — but, she says, they prefer not to call it cava
What’s the history of sparkling wine in this part of Catalonia?
The production of sparkling wines in Penedès began in 1872. This was when the phylloxera louse attacked the vines of Northern Europe, so as France and others began to lose their vines, they looked to the south. Winemakers in Catalonia, who before then only produced still wines, took advantage of demand and began making sparkling wine. My family were among the first winemakers to produce it in Penedès, labelling their first bottle in 1887.
How did you get into winemaking and what continues to drive you?
I grew up making wine. As children, my four siblings and I were always helping our parents in the vineyards. Now, four out of us work fulltime for the company. I love being a winemaker because it makes me feel connected to my homeland. I work every day with the same soil that 26 generations of our family have worked on — there’s something very special about that.
Sparkling wines from Catalonia are most commonly referred to as cava, but Llopart no longer uses this classification — why is that?
The perception of cava around the world doesn’t match the quality of the wine — even though we use the same method as champagne, it’s not as highly regarded. We approached DO Cava to see if certain regulations could be imposed to ensure the label reflected the specific origin and quality [but that didn’t happen], so four years ago, we founded Corpinnat, a collective of now 11 winemakers from Penedès whose grapes are 100% organic, historical varieties and are harvested entirely by hand. Corpinnat wines also have to be vinified on site and must be aged for a minimum of 18 months in the bottle.
What’s your winemaking process?
We haven’t changed our methods much since we labelled our first bottle in 1887. We use the traditional sparkling wine method, which requires two fermentations. First, the grape is fermented into a still wine, and then yeast and sugars are added to begin the second fermentation, which is what gives the wine its bubbles. This method, together with the strict parameters of Corpinnat, requires a lot of effort, but it produces the highest quality wine. If we fail to market ourselves as a high-end product, small producers like Llopart — who focus on quality over quantity — will find it hard to continue. Interview: Jessica Vincent
HOW TO DO IT Llopart’s vineyard tour, with tastings and snacks, costs €26 (£21.70), or €67 (£56) with brunch in the family’s home. The winery is a 35-minute drive from Barcelona, or a short taxi ride from Sant Sadurní d’anoia train station. llopart.com corpinnat.com