National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food
WHERE TO EAT
From Tokyo to London, you don’t have to look far to find ramen on the menu. Here are some of the best options
SOBAHOUSE KONJIKI HOTOTOGISU, TOKYO
Ramen restaurants aren’t hard to come by in Japan, but chef Atsushi Yamamoto’s Shinjuku spot stands out from the crowd — so much so he’s earned a Michelin star. Despite the accolade — and the smart dishes served here — you can expect to pay just ¥1,000 (£7) for a bowl of ramen dotted with clams and porcini mushrooms, topped with truffle oil. The lunch queue can start forming as early as 10.30am, so arrive early and be prepared to wait. sobahousekonjikihot otogisu.com
MENSHO SAN FRANCISCO, TOKYO
Matcha, corn and cheese are the daring flavours of broth on the menu at this bright and buzzy ramen restaurant at the Mylord department store. Alternatively, try the more traditional shoyu (soy sauce) base, which comes with a generous slice of A-grade Kagoshima Wagyu beef that cooks a little in the soup and melts in the mouth. menshogroup.com
EBISOBA ICHIGEN MAIN SHOP, SAPPORO
There are five Ebisoba Ichigen branches across Japan, but this one in downtown Sapporo is the original and best.
It’s usually bustling with salarymen enjoying the delicious, affordable ramen (all under ¥900/£6), which comes with a generous slice of pork belly and a soy-marinated egg. Choose from three types of broth, including a blend of shrimp and miso. ebisoba.com
YATAI TOMOCHAN, FUKUOKA
The city of Fukuoka is known both for its ramen and for its yatai (street food carts). Located on the corner of busy Showadori Avenue and Suikyoichiban-dori Avenue, this yatai serves creamy, pork-based ramen with thin noodles and a topping of chopped spring onions. Open until 2am, it’s the perfect place to pick up a late-night snack. instagram. com/tomocyan_yatai
KANADA-YA, LONDON
Professional cyclist turned ramen chef Kanada Kazuhiro opened this Covent Garden Japanese restaurant in 2014. Since then, he’s opened three more branches in London, all specialising in tonkotsu broth, a speciality of Fukuoka in southern Japan. Rich, creamy and umami-rich, it’s made by stewing pork bones for 18 hours. Kanada-ya’s options come with marinated pork belly and spring onions.
For something a little different, try the spicy yuzu version, or the vegetarian ramen with a shiitake, porcini and soy milk base. kanada-ya.com
NANBAN, LONDON
Half izakaya (casual Japanese bar) and half ramen joint, Nanban (above) is set within a 1930s former eel and pie house in Brixton. The menu gives a nod to the area’s Caribbean community with dishes such as lazy goat ragù-men — ramen with an Indocaribbean curry sauce and scotch bonnet pepper — but there are classic soups too, such as a rich pork broth and a lighter chicken and soy version, as well as vegan options. There’s a second branch in central London’s Seven Dials. nanban.co.uk
IKIGAI RAMEN, EDINBURGH
On the ground floor of a former tenement block, Ikigai Ramen is a cosy space with room for just eight diners — there are no reservations, so arrive early. Try the chewy homemade noodles and tantanmen ramen — a take on
Chinese dan dan noodles incorporating spices such as Japanese pepper into a broth that’s simmered for eight hours. For vegans, there’s a fragrant shiitake soup topped with silken tofu and bamboo shoots. ikigairamen.co.uk
GOEMON RAMEN BAR, BRIGHTON
A stone’s throw from Brighton Beach, this laid-back ramen bar has become a local favourite since opening eight years ago. There are three ramen bases to choose from: shio (salt), shoyu (soy sauce) and miso, which are then mixed with a homemade broth made from either pork or chicken. Elsewhere on the menu, don’t miss the karaage (Japanese-style fried chicken) and the bao buns. goemonramen.com