National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food
REGIONAL RESTAURANTS
Mumbai is home to numerous regional enclaves, with communities from different parts of India observing cultural and culinary traditions that have been passed down through the generations. The Matunga area is home to a large number of south Indians — primarily Tamils — so you’ll find crisp dosas, sinus-clearing rasam (a tangy soup flavoured with tamarind) and exceptional chutneys at busy, shared-table establishments such as Cafe Madras and Sharda Bhavan.
In Dadar, the subtle spicing of Maharashtrian food — the cuisine of the local Marathi people — can be found in the thalipeeth flatbread at Prakash Shakahari Upahaar Kendra and the misal pav (spicy curry with a bread roll)
at Aaswad. Also big in this area is Konkani cuisine, which makes liberal use of fish and seafood. It’s best tried at Gomantak or Acharekar’s Malavan Katta. The thali at both offers a little of everything, but a bombil fry (coated, deep-fried duck) and tisrya masala (clams in coconut paste and spices) are both worth adding to any order.
Bohri Mohalla is the spiritual home of the Bohra Muslim community, and is great for meats and sweets.
Haji Tikka Corner and Indian Hotel are two stalwarts. The former is great for tikkas, while at the latter try baida roti (square, filled parcels of meat and egg). Surti Bara Handi is worth a visit for its slow-cooked goat’s feet with crisp Mughlai roti. No matter where you eat, finish with handchurned ice cream at Taj Ice Cream or malai khaja (creamfilled puff pastry) at Shabbir’s Tawakkal Sweets.