THE FOREST SIDE

SEASONAL CUMBRIAN INGREDIENTS ARE AT THE HEART OF THIS MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS

GRASMERE, CUMBRIA • THEFORESTSIDE.COM

There are few things more delicious and comforting than a hot, buttered crumpet. Especially when that crumpet is homemade, perfectly toasted and glossy with melted butter that’s soaked down into the spongelike interior, coating your lips with every bite. There are five more courses to come, but I’d be perfectly happy if they all turned out to be this.

The man behind the crumpets — and the rest of the menu — is Paul Leonard. Having previously headed up the kitchens of the Isle of Eriska Hotel and The Devonshire Arms, he’s now head chef at The Forest Side, a Michelinstarred restaurant with rooms in the Lake District village of Grasmere. His dishes revolve around seasonal produce, with local and foraged ingredients taking top billing.

The two mini crumpets are there to mop up after a pile of umami-rich fungi, drenched in a mushroom broth that’s both light and packed with flavour. The whole thing is topped with delicate slivers of aromatic, shaved truffle.

There are many other highlights over the six courses. The ‘beetroots cooked all day in their own juice’ arrive as soft, sweet cubes and bright pink, pickled ribbons, dressed with beet and juniper vinegar and wood sorrel plucked from the garden. The sea bass is served with a buttery mussel sauce, dotted with pike roe for an extra savoury element.

Not everything is a hit — the truffled gnocchi are heavy and not truffle-y enough, while the burnt honey and blaeberry tart could pack more of a punch. But The Forest Side is very good at the little things. The bread comes with a vibrant green chive butter I order seconds of, while the ‘snacks’ that start the meal include a smooth, creamy artichoke puree with dandelion custard.

After lunch, I catch the last of the afternoon sun on the terrace of this gothic mansion, while working my way through the powerfully appleflavoured petit fours (a jelly and a tart) and admire the lush gardens. My spacious bedroom — which has the same view — is classically decorated in creams and blues, with a hint of French country about the furniture. Sadly, the two single beds are supremely uncomfortable, with mattresses that look fairly new but feel like they should put in for retirement. But as soon as I see the breakfast menu in the morning, the bed no longer matters: they’re serving crumpets. Doubles from £299. Includes B&B and a four-course dinner. The writer visited in September 2021. Nicola Trup