National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food

What’s a good recipe for Ukrainian dumplings (varenyky)?

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Olia Hercules: These are my ultimate source of comfort. And if you’ve any varenyky left over, fry them in butter until crispy.

SERVES: 4 (MAKES 40-50) TAKES: 1 HR 15

MINS PLUS RESTING AND COOLING

INGREDIENT­S

1 large egg, lightly

beaten

150ml water

300-350g plain or 00 flour, plus a little extra if needed, and for dusting

100g salted butter,

melted

100ml sour cream or creamy Greek yoghurt, to serve

FOR THE FILLINGS

150g Syr or Polish twaróg 1 medium egg, lightly

beaten

1 tbsp sunflower oil 300g kvashena kapusta (Ukrainian sauerkraut)

150g potatoes, peeled

and chopped

2 tbsp sunflower oil 100g shallots, peeled

and sliced

100g Salo or pancetta,

sliced into lardons

METHOD

First make the dough. Combine the egg and water in a large bowl, then add 300g of the flour and mix well until it comes together. You’re looking for a firm dough; if it’s too sticky, gradually add the extra 50g flour, a spoonful at a time, until you get the right consistenc­y. You may need a little more than this if it’s still too sticky.

Turn it out onto a floured surface and knead for a few mins, until it you get a smooth, elastic dough. Wrap with cling film and chill in the fridge for 30 mins.

Next make your fillings. For the curd cheese filling, mix the cheese and egg in a bowl and season heavily with salt — it should be slightly oversalted. Set aside.

For the cabbage filling, heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the kvashena kapusta for 5 mins. Transfer to a bowl to cool.

For the potato filling, place the potatoes in a saucepan over a high heat and cover with cold water. Season with salt and bring to the boil. Cook for 15 mins or until they can be easily pierced with a knife. Drain and mash them really well. Set aside.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan over a low-medium heat. Fry the shallots for 15-20 mins, until they colour. Mix the shallots into the mashed potato and set aside.

Place the lardons in a dry frying pan over a medium heat and cook for 8-10 mins, until crispy. Tip into a separate bowl, reserve any fat from the pan and set aside for serving.

When your dough has chilled, split it in half. Flour your work surface generously.

Take half the dough and roll it into a 30cm diameter circle, just less than 2mm thick. Cut into 3cm squares — you should end up with 20-25. (Don’t throw away the off-cuts — you can cook them along with the stuffed pasta.) Repeat with the other half of the dough.

Have a well-floured tray ready. Pop 1 tsp of the cheese filling into the centre of a square. Fold in half diagonally to create a triangular dumpling and press the edges together to seal. Continue filling your varenyky, moving on to the cabbage and potato fillings. Place them on the floured tray as you go — group by filling and make sure they don’t touch.

Add half the melted butter to one bowl and the other half to another bowl. Set aside.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and carefully add the cheese varenyky. Boil for a couple of mins, or until they float to the surface. Drain then add to one of your butter bowls and toss to coat. Repeat for the cabbage varenyky and toss in the other bowl of butter. Finally cook the potato varenyky the same way. Drain.

12 Serve the cheese and cabbage varenyky alongside the sour cream or yoghurt. Serve the potato varenyky sprinkled with the lardons and drizzled with lardon fat.

Taken from Mamushka: Recipes from Ukraine & Beyond by Olia Hercules (£26, Mitchell Beazley)

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