WHERE TO EAT

Some of the best places to sample massaman curry in Thailand and the UK

NAHM, BANGKOK

One of the best-known

Thai restaurants in the world, Nahm was founded by chef David Thompson but is now helmed by Pim Techamuanvivit, who’s ensured that the restaurant has kept its Michelin star for the past five years.

She serves two versions of massaman: one with beef, grilled potatoes and burnt shallots, and a vegetarian version featuring root vegetables and seasonal fruit.comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok

KRUA AROY-AROY, BANGKOK

This simple shophouse and family-run restaurant is home to some of Bangkok’s most popular massaman curries, made with either chicken or the less common addition of pork. You’ll also find steaming vats of dishes from all over Thailand, including Burmese-influenced specialities from the north. It’s justifiably popular with local office workers as well as tourists, with long lunchtime queues at the counter.facebook.com/kruaaroyaroy

MINBURI MARKET, BANGKOK

The massaman at this small market on the outskirts of Bangkok is a favourite of chef Saiphin Moore, co-founder of Rosa’s

Thai. Though primarily a produce market, “heaps of fresh curries are sold daily here for you to take home or to have with rice right at the market,” she says. Moore’s preferred version is made with beef brisket. 18 Sihaburanukit Rd, Min Buri, Bangkok 10510

BLUE ELEPHANT PHUKET

One of four Blue Elephant restaurants founded and run by Nooror Somany Steppe (known as Chef Nooror) — the others are in Bangkok, Copenhagen and Malta — this branch is set within a beautiful early 20th-century mansion. Chef Nooror has been an ambassador for Thai food for over 40 years and her massaman paste recipe is almost as famous as she is. Based on her mother’s version, the curry features fresh ginger and coconut juice. blueelephant.com

PLAZA KHAO GAENG, LONDON

Opened in Oxford Street’s Arcade Food Hall this spring to rave reviews, Plaza Khao Gaeng is modelled on the canteens in Thai markets and shopping centres, where curries and rice are served from vast metal trays. Come here for the aromatic beef massaman (pictured), but be sure not to miss the turmeric chicken wings or the tamarind and mint kombucha. plazakhaogaeng.com

DISTRICT, MANCHESTER

District is loud, brash and very deliberately cool — there’s a lot of stainless steel and purple lighting — and almost as much attention is paid to the playlist as the menu. The food is adventurous (the restaurant brands itself as ‘new wave Thai’) and smart, with a massaman made with wagyu beef and pickled Thai shallots. Other menu highlights include kohlrabi som tum and raw sea bass with nam jim dipping sauce and purple yam. districtmanchester.co.uk

TING THAI CARAVAN, EDINBURGH & GLASGOW

There are four Ting

Thai Caravans — two in Edinburgh, two in Glasgow — all serving a combination of Thai favourites such as green, red and yellow curries, along with lesserknown dishes like deepfried eggs or crispy pork skins, both served with chilli jam. The massaman curry comes several ways: with chicken, beef or vegetables, or for something slightly richer, confit duck leg. tingthai-caravan.com

LONG CHIM, LONDON

David Thompson is bringing his laid-back Australian-thai restaurant, Long Chim — which currently has branches in Dubai and Singapore, as well as Australia — to London this winter. The first European outpost is in Horse and Dolphin Yard, a historic courtyard in Chinatown, and while details are currently thin on the ground, the hope is this branch will serve the massaman that features on the menu at Long

Chim Perth — a delicately spiced curry with beef and sweet potatoes. instagram.com/longchim