ANDON RYOKAN

Catch some z’s in old-school Japanese style at Andon, a traditional inn with a modern twist. Its 24 no-frills rooms contain futons and tatami mats, while bathrooms are communal; elsewhere, a pop-art-tiled whirlpool bath can be booked for a soak. The ryokan also serves as an antiques showroom: look for the ‘lucky’ fukusuke dolls in public spaces. And for a further cultural nose-dive, book

a flower-arranging session or calligraphy lesson. ROOMS: From ¥6,500 (£44), room only. andon.co.jp