National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Meet the Geisha, Kanazawa
Lady Baba, landlady of Kaikaro teahouse
IN KANAZAWA, THE YOUNGEST GEISHA IS 19 YEARS OLD — she’s like a beautiful Japanese doll. The oldest is 84, and most of my guests choose her because she’s very charming. I even have a reservation for her in 2020.
KYOTO HAS A SCHOOL TO TRAIN GEISHAS FROM 15 YEARS OLD, but Kanazawa doesn’t, so geishas go to an individual master’s house and take lessons one by one every single day. Teahouses are like agents for geishas. MY TEAHOUSE IS 200 YEARS OLD and it’s a treasure for Kanazawa. It’s the highest ranking in the city, with two guest rooms — the red room and the VIP blue room. Guests with bodyguards use that one.
GEISHAS PAINT THEIR FACES WHITE because a long time ago there was no electricity, but it was necessary to look beautiful by candlelight. This is still adopted today, and it takes 20 to 30 minutes for a geisha to put on make-up. Next is the kimono. Many tourists wear a rental kimono made from polyester, but our kimono is made completely from silk.
I DO NOT USE A WIG — THIS IS REAL HAIR, so I have to go to a beauty salon every morning to have my hair set; it’s like a mushroom. Many geishas, however, wear a wig made from human hair that fits each of their heads.
CAN GEISHAS GET MARRIED? Yes, we can. But if I say I have a boyfriend, my popularity will go down very quickly. Guests never ask about our background — it’s always a mystery.
HOW TO DO IT: Geisha Evenings in Kanazawa has tickets for a 90-minute dance and music performance plus a lesson on geisha culture from ¥6,500 (£44). geishaevenings.jp