National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Like a local
Taking in the Tuscan city of Lucca
With its triple shot of history, culture and phenomenal seasondriven food — not to mention beautiful countryside right on its doorstep — the Tuscan city is a must on any Italian itinerary
Past and present
Lucca’s remarkably intact, tree-shaded RENAISSANCE WALLS trace a 2.6-mile loop around the historic centre. This is where locals come to jog, cycle and picnic, so follow suit and go for a sunset passeggiata (stroll), admiring the silhouettes of medieval towers against pinkening skies in one direction and the Apuan Alps in the other.
Dive into the medieval old town and admire the oval-shaped PIAZZA DELL’ANFITEATRO, rising above the ruins of the old Roman amphitheatre and fringed by ochre-painted townhouses and pavement cafes. It’s rightly billed as one of Tuscany’s prettiest piazzas, so it’s worth arriving nice and early to enjoy the scene before everyone else gets here.
Swing south through narrow lanes and up pops redbrick, crenellated TORRE GUINIGI, Lucca’s lanky Romanesque-gothic landmark. The 125ft tower is all the more impressive once
you’ve pu ed up 230 steps to the top, which is crowned with holm oaks. Here, views reach across the city’s jumble of terracotta rooops, domes and towers to the mountains beyond.
Saunter west and you’ll pass the PisanRomanesque basilica of CHIESA DI SAN MICHELE IN FORO, sidling up to the house where opera genius Puccini was born in 1858. Just a short walk from here, however, is SAN MARTINO CATHEDRAL, all at once weighty and delicate with its facade of intricately carved marble. Inside the great church, look out for the legendary Volto Santo crucifix and Renaissance masterpieces, like Tintoretto’s Last Supper and Fra Bartolomeo’s Madonna and Child. museocattedralelucca.it
But for masterpieces of the baroque kind, edge through the historic centre to lavish PALAZZO PFANNER. Scenes from the 1996 Nicole Kidman and John Malkovich flick The Portrait of a Lady were filmed in the grand mansion’s sublime gardens, fringed by potted lemon trees, camellias, begonias and statues of burly Olympian gods. palazzopfanner.it
Tuscan trips
In the Garfagnana mountains, BARGA, a 50-minute drive north, is the hilltown of your wildest Tuscan dreams. Slow the pace in its adorable pastel-daubed, alley-woven centre. The two big sights? Its fortress-like, 1,000-year-old cake-topper of a cathedral, with dress-circle views of wooded peaks, and its incongruous British telephone boxturned-book exchange. barga.it
Gourmets should make a beeline for SAN MINIATO, a medieval town where the lanes are lined with warm-stone palazzi and views take in orchards and olive groves. This is Tuscan true country, and every autumn (September to December) visitors can join local true hunters and their dogs and head into the woods in search of the hallowed tartufo bianco (white true). Time a visit for the end of November, when the town hosts its true fair. sanminiatoturismo.it
For lunch, snag a table at SERGIO FALASCHI, a butcher’s-cum-trattoria with a covered terrace out back a ording riveting views of the valley. Specials might include the likes of fresh pasta with Chianina beef ragu and mallegato (blood sausage). sergiofalaschi.com
Chianti gets all the hype, but there’s terrific wine closer to Lucca in walled, fortresscrowned MONTECARLO, a 30-minute drive east of the city. Go for a tour of the vines, a tasting of the local full-bodied reds and lunch or a cookery class at family-run wineries like FATTORIA DEL TESO and FATTORIA IL POGGIO. fattoriadelteso.it fattoriailpoggio.net
Aer something sweet? Grab a gelato and enjoy the sand and sea views at FORTE DEI
MARMI, 40-minute drive from Lucca. Expect pine-shaded beaches, boutique shopping and a promenade perfect for people watching.
fortedeimarmi.it KERRY WALKER