National Geographic Traveller (UK)
On the trail
Romania’s mountainous region is among Europe’s finest landscapes, and the ideal setting for a road trip around gothic fortresses and centuries-old towns. Words: Angela Locatelli
Road-tripping in medieval Transylvania
1 SIGHIȘOARA
Start off at this pastel-coloured UNESCO World Heritage
Site. One of Europe’s bestpreserved medieval citadels, its cobbled alleys have remained continuously inhabited since the 12th century. Climb the fairytale Clock Tower, complete with figurines moved by the clock mechanism; shop for handmade wooden crafts; or listen out for the calls of the town crier, who, to this day, announces local events to the roll of drums.
2 TRANSFĂGĂRĂȘAN
No Transylvanian road trip is complete without a ride along this thrilling highway, featured on many lists of the world’s best drives. Offering breathtaking views of the Carpathian Mountains, it zigzags up barren valleys to Bâlea Lake, carved by a glacier into the country’s highest peak. The route also takes in the imposing Vidraru Dam, one of largest hydroelectric dams in Europe.
3 POENARI CASTLE
Catch glimpses of this cliffside fortress on the southern stretch of the Transfăgărășan. Those determined enough to take on the 1,480 steps to the ruins will experience the sinister thrill of walking in the footseps of
Vlad the Impaler. The 15thcentury ruler — who’s said to have inspired the region’s most notorious fictional resident, Bram Stoker’s Count Dracula — turned this near-impenetrable castle into one of his residences.
4 TÂRGOVIȘTE
The history of this city far belies its small size, having once served as the capital of the historical Wallachia region. Make sure to visit the ruins of Princely Court and the cylindrical, redbrick Chindia Tower. Plus, don’t miss the Museum of Printing & Old Romanian Books, which traces the country’s printing history through original copies and rare manuscripts.
5 SNAGOV MONASTERY
A beacon of medieval art, this secluded sanctuary lies on Snagov Island, at the northern end of Snagov Lake. Architecture buffs can marvel at the Byzantine facade, crowned with four polygonal towers, and admire the interior walls, adorned with one of Romania’s largest collections of medieval frescoes.
6 BRAN CASTLE
Perched on a rocky promontory, this dramatic, turreted landmark could be straight out of a horror story — so much so that fans of Stoker’s gothic novel dubbed it ‘Dracula’s Castle’. Its timbered rooms now house a museum displaying artworks, furniture and weapons dating back to the 14th century. To really experience the eerie atmosphere, explore the myriad hidden passageways and lamp-lit stairways.