National Geographic Traveller (UK)
THE UNSPOILED COAST
Just off the coast of neighbouring Cambodia, the jungle-fringed eastern shores of Phu Quoc island are one of Southeast A sia’s best-kept secrets
While re-building my bicycle on the streets of Duong Dong, Phu Quoc’s main town, I amass a small crowd of Vietnamese scooter mechanics who pass me wrenches and cold bottles of
Bia Saigon as I work. I had flown to Phu
Quoc from Thailand, keen to explore this relatively undeveloped island. Arriving by air confirmed what I’d been told by other backpackers: the west coast, home to Long Beach — the swathe of white sand that won Phu Quoc its paradise reputation — was dotted with resorts and car parks. The east, however, looked uninhabited, separated from the resorts of the west coast by thick jungle; I’d had to squint to make out the jetties and fishing villages along the shore.
Aer passing a night in Duong Dong I set o northwards, along the west coast, weaving through the busy trac. The streets slowly fade away and I find myself pedalling through countryside, occasional paths snaking o to my le towards oceanside hotels. When it becomes too hot to continue, I turn down a dirt track between two resorts and head for Ong Lang beach. The scene is exactly what
Phu Quoc is famous for — a long, empty strip of sand curving around the bay, perfect for a refreshing dip. Cycling on, I make it to the village of Ganh Dau — a scenic spot to watch fishermen hauling in their catch throughout the day. As I while away the evening on the terrace of my hotel restaurant, twinkling stars appear over distant Cambodia.
The following day, my sights are set on the jungle-clad east coast. There’s almost no trac on the pristine stretch of tarmac that crosses the island, and I quickly emerge in
Bai Thom, a cool community of surfer bars and restaurants. Further south, the road deteriorates into a mud track. I stop for the night at a family-run boutique where, in astonishment, the receptionist greets me with, “You cycled here? I’ll upgrade you!” He leads the way through a web of hallways to a jaw-dropping penthouse, where a large bathtub oers a view out of floor-to-ceiling windows towards the ocean.
The hotel becomes my base from which to explore the coast. On one excursion, my eye is drawn to a hut in the middle of the sea, connected to the shore by a narrow plank. It turns out to be an informal fish restaurant, catering to locals pottering between the market towns. The sta haul fish from the net, toss it with chilli and garlic and sear it with water spinach over a tiny gas stove.
Further down the coast is the little village of Ham Ninh, another gourmet paradise, where seafood eateries extend out over the water. The restaurants are closed on my last evening, which later seems portentous. A typhoon sweeps in overnight and, when I leave for the port the next morning, the muddy road is thick and dicult to follow.
News that the government had decided to pave the east coast had been making me anxious — I had been worried it might spoil the region’s untouched nature. But as I pedal frantically for the harbour, and one of the few bicycle-friendly boats of the day, I’m wishing for a smoother path. Battling on through fishing villages and past street food stalls, I realise that Phu Quoc’s character runs deeper than its resorts and the hostels — and it’ll take more than a stretch of tarmac to undo the tight-knit communities that line these beautiful eastern shores.
BEST FOR NIGHTLIFE
Nha Trang
Vietnam’s answer to Miami, Nha Trang’s urban beach is a lively stretch of sand that’s lined with food stalls in the evenings and o en hosts seaside music festivals. It’s popular with young Vietnamese and has a buzzing, carnival atmosphere. The backdrop may be high-rise hotels, but the view out to sea is idyllic, with misty hills in the distance.
BE ST FOR CHILLING OUT
Song Cau
The paradisiacal white sand beaches around Song Cau are some of the most pristine in southern Vietnam. They’re well-served by family-run homestays and guesthouses surrounded by shady gardens with unhindered sea views. But it might not stay that way for long — go now, before the big resorts move in.
BE ST FOR WATERSPORTS
Mui Ne
The crop of new resorts that have sprung up in Mui Ne haven’t taken away from the town’s main draw: the superb waves that make this one of the best surfing beaches on Vietnam’s southern coast. Nearby Phan Thiet is a gorgeous coastal town with a pretty harbour and superb seafood.
BE ST FOR BACKPACKERS
Ghenh Rang
A largely undiscovered gem, Ghenh Rang — just south of Qui Nhon city
— is a secluded beach surrounded by wildflowers, forests and mountain views, with islands scattered along the coast. Khu Vuc 1, a local fishing village, is a laid-back place to bed down for the night, with a selection of beachfront guesthouses.
BE ST FOR EXPLORERS
Tam Hai Island
To reach Tam Ha Island, south of Hoi An, you have to cross rickety bridges over rice paddies, then set sail on a ramshackle ferry — but the destination is well worth the journey. The island is centred around a small town that’s decorated with murals by local students. There are also sandy beaches and secluded beach huts.