A GOURMET GUIDE TO HO CHI MINH CITY

A new generation of V ietnamese chefs is giving s treet food the VIP treatment — and it’s no surprise that playful, cosmopolitan Ho Chi Minh City is at the heart of the movement

STREET FOOD GOES GOURMET

Everyone in Ho Chi Minh City talks about the $100 (£78) banh mi at Anan— a street food-style baguette served with foie gras, black tru e mayonnaise and caviar. Located in one of the city’s oldest street markets, this restaurant is at the forefront of modern Vietnamese food; its ‘tapas’ tasting menu, featuring dishes such as banh xeo (rice pancake) tacos, is fantastic.

Vietnam House, by celebrity chef Luke Nguyen, is another spectacular example of classic street food receiving an upgrade.

Set in a converted colonial-era mansion, the clash between its elegant exterior and glitzy interior is the perfect setup for the menu’s fusion of fine dining and country rustic. The grilled wagyu beef rolled in betel leaves, and pigeon with papaya salad, are well worth a try. anansaigon.com vietnamhousesaigon.com

SUCCULENT SNAILS

One of Ho Chi Minh City’s oldest foodie traditions, slurping salty, chewy oc (snails) on a street corner is a must. Sea snails of various colours, shapes and sizes are steamed, fried or grilled; they might also be coated in chilli salt, flavoured with lemon leaves or lemongrass, and dipped in zingy tamarind or creamy coconut sauce. Oc Dao is a classic snail restaurant chain with three venues in the centre of town; Oc Loan, a little further out, is one of the city’s oldest snail restaurants and is one for the hardcore street food fans.

SOUP HOUSES

Pho, Vietnam’s ubiquitous meat, noodle and vegetable soup, is known the world over. To find the best versions in Ho Chi

Minh City, you can’t go wrong with a trip to Ben Thanh Street Food Market. Make sure to also look out for bun mam, a gloriously pungent noodle soup of anchovy-paste broth with fish and prawns, and bun bo gio heo, a punchy, citrus broth served with noodles and a pig’s trotter that cooks slowly in the soup until it’s melt-in-the-mouth tender. Two of the best soup houses are Pho 2000, where former US President Bill Clinton stopped for lunch during a state visit, and Bun

Mam Phan Boi Chau, in the centre of town. bunmamcuadongbenthanh.com

PHO COCKTAILS

Invented by barman Pham Tien Tiep, pho cocktails — thankfully inspired by the aromatics, rather than by brisket and noodles — is a surprisingly delicate twist on a classic flying dutchman cocktail.

Gin and triple sec are mixed with the traditional pho spices of cinnamon, star anise, cardamom and fresh coriander to create a zingy drink that’s pure Vietnam. Look out for the cocktail at Fix It Bar in Ben Thanh. Meanwhile, the nearby Alley Cocktail Bar & Kitchen, just o¡ Pasteur Street, is one of the city’s finest cocktail bars and serves up drinks inspired by ingredients from the Mekong region. facebook.com/fixitbar facebook.com/thealleysaigon