A LAND CALLED SUNRISE

From the fertile plains of Mesopotamia to the twinkling metropolis of Istanbul, Anatolia has always stood at the forefront of human civilisation. Poised at the crossroads of continents, Turkey is a wonderland, rich with history

Anatolia means ‘the land of the sunrise’, and each day I witness the warm light that passes from the far edge of Asia and shines onwards to Europe. Time is part of the landscape in Turkey, where humans have witnessed this same daybreak since time was first recorded. The rhythmic play of shadow and sun details every stone fragment, lights up engravings etched in ancient script, spelling out the elaborate chapters in Turkey’s long and layered history.

From the eastern border to Istanbul, I follow the time-trodden grooves in the stone streets, polished by Greek and Roman soldiers,

Silk Road merchants, Christian pilgrims, Byzantine monks, Catholic crusaders and Ottoman sultans. At every site I wonder, is it Bronze or Iron Age, Paleolithic or Neolithic, and is it Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman — or all of the above? Exploring Anatolia has changed my concept of time. Indeed, Turkey redefines old.

Mount Nemrut

On a morning hike up Mount Nemrut, the peach-pink dawn reflects off the silent stone figures that guard the ancient summit tomb of King Antiochus I. The view is immortal — stretching out for miles and miles over the deep and furrowed valleys of the Taurus Mountains. Up here, the hills have eyes; gigantic statues of gods and creatures straight out of Greek mythology all stare blankly at the glowing horizon.

Cappadoccia

Some of Turkey’s best-kept secrets are underground, like the churches of Göreme, carved from the volcanic stone that defines the region’s landscape. I’m amazed by the frescoes of the ‘dark church’ before descending into Derinkuyu, a subterranean city that housed more than 20,000 people. Join one of the daily hot air balloon flights that float above the fairy chimney formations.

Pool of Hierapolis and Pamukkale

A spa since the second century BC, Cleopatra’s Pool offers an unforgettable swim among the ruins of Hierapolis. Paddling through the clear water, I tiptoe over marble columns and stone steps, surrounded by Mediterranean gardens. Then at dusk, I walk the white ledges of ‘cotton castle’ — the calcite slopes of Pamukkale rising like a staircase to the sky.

Göbeklitepe

This 12,000-year-old monument is more than twice as old as Stonehenge. Stepping down into Göbeklitepe is haunting — as if I’m unlocking the secrets of my own being by staring at mankind’s first ritual space. The carved animal figures look ready to leap from the stone, each one carved from the limestone cliffs placed upright by human hands that lived so long ago.

Mardin

This historic city, set upon a high ledge, is known for its diverse architecture. From the rooftop restaurants I peer across the wide-open span of the Fertile Crescent, wedged between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. This is the place where humans first domesticated animals, where they learned to cultivated wheat and invented the wheel, and where they developed the first written language. Shop for handmade silver treasures on the winding streets, or go out late to experience the lively nightlife in this historical Silk Road outpost.

Istanbul

A city at the centre of the world,

Istanbul boasts a skyline of domes and minarets, skyscrapers and elegant bridges. Istanbul is a flurry of motion, art, and good food. Draped over hills and shorelines, the city pulsates with the urgency of today and the momentum of tomorrow. Yet despite the twinkling modernity of this global metropolis, Istanbul loves tradition — Turkish coffee in Beyo lu, Friday prayer, a visit to the hammam (Turkish bath), or hunting for bargains in Çukurcuma’s antique shops. Every day feels new because each street offers an unexpected reminder of the past — a block from a Roman temple laid into the foundation of a mosque, a fragmented Byzantine mosaic peeking out from the stucco, or a kitten napping in the window of a grand Ottoman facade. And beyond that, a glittering skyline of TV towers and glasshouses. Each new layer is built on the one before, now home to millions who share the history of these stones, and who live in a land named after the ever-rising sun.

Lake Van and Akdamar Island

The city of Van is truly ancient. Some of the oldest stories in the world point back to Anatolia, telling me this fascinating country is even older than Noah, whose ark is said to have landed upon the snow-topped peak of Mount Ararat. While the archeological evidence is disputed, the legend remains, along with some remarkable alleged descendants — the strange and beautiful white cats of Lake Van. Said to be ‘touched by Allah’, the snow-white cats stand out due to their affinity for water and their alluring mismatched eyes: one blue, one yellow. Across Lake Van is the sacred outpost of Akdamar Island. Over a thousand years old, the Cathedral of the Holy Cross dates back to the time of Armenian kings. Striking carvings cover the outer facade, recounting the Biblical tales of David and Goliath, and Adam and Eve.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Church interior, Göreme Open Air Museum; view over Mardin; life on shore opposite Maiden’s tower, Istanbul; Akdamar Island; Göbeklitepe; the antique Pool of Hierapolis

FROM LEFT: Mount Nemrut, tomb sanctuary of King Antiochus I