TANNINS OF TANNAT

Latin America’s least-known wine producer yields a small but mighty crop — quality over quantity is the mantra here

In the past, the Tannat grape been derided for its tongue-drying tannins. However, some imaginative blending has softened the grape to offer complex fruitiness, characterised by plum, blackberry and black cherry

Uruguayan wine? Before you spit out the idea like a bad Pinot, let’s make something clear: Argentina is acclaimed for its Malbec, and Chile celebrated for its Carménère, and for those who know, Uruguay is the treasured home of Tannat. The plains of this small country, squeezed between Argentina, Brazil and the South Atlantic, has generations-old vineyards and produces some of the world’s most renowned wines. Admittedly, Uruguay isn’t a significant producer — the country makes around the same amount as a sizeable Chilean winery — but quality over quantity is the mantra for winemakers here.

Like Argentina’s Malbec, the Tannat grape was brought over from southwest France — it’s occasionally called Harriague, after the Basque settler who was instrumental in planning the variety in the 1870s. In the past, it’s been derided for its tongue-drying tannins (the word from which its name derives). However, some imaginative blending has softened the grape to offer complex fruitiness, characterised by plum, blackberry and black cherry. As a result, it’s the perfect variety to accompany an asado, the barbecued meat feast beloved by Uruguayans.

The success of the grape is a consequence of its geography. The majority of the vineyards are among the gentle hills around the nation’s capital, Montevideo, and into the Canelones Department. You’ll also find Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and, increasingly, the white grape Albariño, characterised by sprightly citrus notes and peachy aromas.

Many of the vineyards here are open to visitors. Some of the names will be familiar to customers of wine shops here in the UK — the likes of Alto de la Ballena, near Punta del Este; De Lucca, in Canelones; and Viñedo de los Vientos, in Atlantida, where, if it’s in stock, the medal-winning Reserve Tannat 2016 is highly recommended. altodelaballena.com deluccawines.com vinedodelosvientos.com

ABOVE: Horse rider in the Finca Piedra vineyards, San Jose