National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Inside guide

Set on the shores of Lake Geneva, the Swiss city is a tour de force of Alpine backdrops, Olympic legends and cultural clout

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Getting cultural in lakeside Lausanne

Culturally speaking, Lausanne is a city on the move, with a creative buzz and party-loving vibe courtesy of the students that dri between galleries, cafes, co ee shops and post-industrial bars. Add a medieval centre, Olympic heritage and a beautiful lakeside setting, and the result is what can rightfully be billed as one of Switzerlan­d’s most exciting cities.

On the site of the city’s former train sheds, PLATEFORME 10 is an innovative arts district set to single-handedly revolution­ise Lausanne’s cultural scene by bringing together the city’s three flagship museums: the Musée Cantonal des Beaux-Arts (MCBA), the Musée de l’Élysée and the Museum of Contempora­ry Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC). You’ll find restaurant­s, a bookshop, a library and event spaces in the mix, too. plateforme­10.ch

The first of the three to open at Plateforme 10 is the MUSÉE CANTONAL DES BEAUX ARTS MCBA , with its geometric, light-drenched interiors. The museum houses a collection strong on 18th- and 19th-century Swiss art, including works by Louis Ducros, Félix Vallotton and Alice Bailly. The rotating exhibition­s swing from Viennese modernism to Giovanni Giacometti’s watercolou­rs. Entry is free, although temporary exhibition­s may have an admission fee. mcba.ch

Over in the post-industrial Flon district, a ra of newwave cafes, bars, boutiques and galleries occupy former warehouses. With its mishmash of Victorian frippery and exotic blooms, the fabulously eccentric LE PERROQUET is a popular go-to spot for a weekend brunch and spot-on G&Ts. Head to nearby EAT ME for internatio­nal cuisines and expertly mixed cocktails that whisk you around the globe. A erwards, bed down at HÔTEL DES VOYAGEURS, a boutique retreat combining art deco architectu­re with chic style. voyageurs.ch eat-me.ch

Lausanne’s third-wave cafe scene is going from strength to strength in this hip corner of town, with the likes of speciality co eeshops THE COFFEE PROJECT and ÇA PASSE CRÈME! plus roastery-cafe SLEEPY BEAR COFFEE providing a first-class ca eine fix thanks to baristas who seriously know their stu . theco eeproject.ch capassecre­me.ch sleepybear­co ee.ch

Slightly west of Flon, DOCKS is Lausanne’s cultural livewire, with a gallery that zooms in on the rising stars of Swiss art and an always-stellar lineup of gigs (Nick Cave, Foals and Sigur Ros have all played here). docks.ch

There’s also the historic La Cité district, topped o by the gothic giant that is LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL. Clamber up to the belfry for spectacula­r views over the city’s roo ops to Lake Geneva and the Alps beyond. While in the area, stop by the MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORA­RY DESIGN AND APPLIED ARTS MUDAC before it ups sticks to Plateforme 10 in 2022. mudac.ch

Head down to the waterfront Ouchy neighbourh­ood for even more views of the lake and mountains. When the sun is out, it seems the entire city decamps to the PROMENADE to walk, run, cycle or rollerblad­e. You can also rent out pedalos and kayaks, or simply hang out at the pop-up bars that appear here in summer.

One of Lausanne’s top lakefront attraction­s is the OLYMPIC MUSEUM, which has displays of medals, torches and other memorabili­a, as well as an array of interactiv­e exhibits. The museum is the prelude to the OLYMPIC

PARK, where sculpture-studded landscaped gardens lead down to the lake. The other standout here is the MUSÉE DE L’ELYSÉE, showcasing an ever-changing roster of contempora­ry photograph­y in an 18th-century mansion (also moving to Plateforme 10 in 2021). olympic.org elysee.ch

Ouchy is blow-the-budget territory in Lausanne, and the icing on the cake is CHÂTEAU D’OUCHY, where medieval castle meets modern hotel. Around the corner is twoMicheli­n-starred ANNE SOPHIE PIC, where the eponymous chef walks the culinary high-wire with punchy, seasondriv­en, too-pretty-to-eat dishes at the Beau-Rivage Palace. chateaudou­chy.ch brp.ch KERRY WALKER

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