DAY ONE CAVES & CASTLES

Climb to the highest point in central Cappadocia: Uçhisar Castle, a 200ft-high turret of golden volcanic rock, sculpted by the elements and, later, by humans, the earliest of whom are believed to be the Hittites from the second millennium BC. The ascent winds through tunnels and caves used as havens during attacks; spot livestock mangers and tandırlar

(pit ovens) scooped from walls and floors. The summit affords great vistas, particularly east across Uçhisar village’s old quarter, past another castle-crag (the word ‘ uçhisar’ means ‘three fortresses’) to take in the outline of Erciyes, one of three volcanoes whose eruptions 30 million years ago laid the foundations of this dramatic landscape. Stroll down to the Peri Cafe Cave Man, housed in a ‘fairy chimney’, for çay (tea), roasted pumpkin seeds and more dramatic views of the castle across the wildflower-spangled hillside.

AFTERNOON

Fuel up at Kadineli, a restaurant serving traditional Anatolian dishes prepared by village women in a renovated stone schoolhouse: try lahana sarmasi (stuffed cabbages), yaprak sarna (vine-leaf wraps), mantı (Turkish ravioli) and erişte (pasta ribbons) dusted with herbs. Walking is the best way to explore central Cappadocia, and you’ll burn off the calories on the hike down Güllüdere Vadisi (‘rose valley’), past dwarf almond and apricot trees, vines and poplars between blushing, folded rock walls. Keep eyes peeled for cave churches and pigeon houses, their diminutive doorways surrounded by gleaming plaster daubed with ‘lucky’ symbols — camels, palm trees, wheels — designed to attract birds. The trail leads to Çavuşin, where another hour’s walk, among the speartip-like outcrops of Kılıclar Vadisi (‘swords valley’), takes you to the bright lights of Göreme town.

EVENING

For an insight into subterranean life — the norm for villagers here until at least the 18th century — return to Uçhisar to explore the underground areas of Argos in Cappadocia on the free tour (17.00 daily). This extraordinary hotel in the settlement’s old quarter has preserved the longabandoned chambers unearthed during construction. Discover a spacious church, dating from the fifth or sixth century, later used as a caravanserai (roadside inn); an expansive kitchen, with hollows dug as berths for tandırlar ovens; a two-mile-long aqueduct; and a linseed atelier that once produced the oil for lamps that long ago lit these underground dwellings. Afterwards, repair to Seki restaurant to drink in both the views and the spicy local syrah. Don’t miss Cappadocia’s signature testi kebab — meat, vegetables and herbs simmered in a clay pot.