DAY THREE THE SOUTHERN LOOP

An extra day in Cappadocia allows time to explore further afield, touring sites largely off the main trail — either under your own steam or as part of an organised tour

KAYMAKLI

Cappadocia’s subterranean labyrinths, initially excavated over 2,600 years ago and enlarged during the Byzantine era, served as a refuge from waves of Arab and Mongol invasions and Ottoman persecution. Of several underground cities open today, Kaymakli is arguably the most rewarding to visit. Delve five levels down to explore kitchens, stables, wineries and churches.

SOGANLI VALLEY

This valley is flanked by high cliffs into which are carved numerous pigeon houses. The small monastic cave complex at the end of the valley is the starting point for two walks — one above the poplar-lined river via Kubbelli Kilise (‘domed church’) to Soğanlı village (around 45 minutes), and a six-mile hike north through the gorge to Güzelöz.

IHLARA GORGE

This canyon snakes through the flat landscape beneath the bulk of Hasan Dağı Volcano, 44 miles south west of Uçhisar. Its basalt walls are pocked with cave churches, although the real joy is simply ambling along the peaceful path alongside the Melendiz River. Tackle the 10-mile stretch between Ihlara village and Selime (around six hours), or the central portion between the main entrance above Sümbüllü Church and Belisırma (about 1.5 hours). Pause to admire Kirkdamaltı Kilise (St George’s Church), and its 19thcentury Greek graffiti.

SULTANHANI

The largest han (caravanserai) in Anatolia, west of Aksaray, makes an interesting detour from Ihlara. Founded in the 13th century, it was a key stop on the network of havens built under the Seljuk

Empire to serve trading caravans. Enter through the ornately carved doorway and explore a courtyard surrounded by chambers in which merchants stabled their animals and stored goods.

SOBESOS

Discovered in 2002 on the outskirts of Şahinefendi, 16 miles south east of Uçhisar, Sobesos is the only ancient Roman city so far found in Cappadocia. Having been partially excavated, visitors can wander around a bath complex, an assembly house, a graveyard and a basilica with some fine mosaics.

KEŞLIK MONASTERY

South of Mustafapaşa, this compact and atmospheric monastic complex bored into a cluster of pointed outcrops is home to a kitchen, refectory, winepress and school, all set within a lush orchard.

Ihlara Valley, a winding basalt gorge whose walls are pocked with cave churches