National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Before the Colosseum
Elisabetta Govi, an archaeology professor at the University of Bologna, discusses Italy’s ancient Etruscan civilisation and its most impressive remaining sites
If I had to pick anywhere to visit, it’d be Cerveteri and Tarquinia in Lazio, both known for their necropolises. At Cerveteri, there are underground chambers that show you how aristocratic houses must have looked. Walking through is incredibly moving. And the tombs in Tarquinia have extraordinary frescoed walls, with stillbright colours. The dead are brought back to life in the paintings, mainly in banquet scenes where they’re eating and drinking with dancers and musicians. I’d also recommend Populonia on the Tuscan coast, which has spectacular views from the acropolis in the archaeological park.
The Etruscans lived in various areas of the Italian peninsula from around 900 BC to AD 100 (what we call the ‘Romanisation’ phase, as the Romans progressively conquered them). Modern Tuscany and northern Lazio make up the best-known area, but the Etruscans were also found in the north, around the Po river, the Adriatic coast and Bologna, and in the south, around the Gulf of Salerno. Most Etruscan cities were built over by the Romans.
For an idea of what an Etruscan city would have been like in its entirety, try Marzabotto, near Bologna, where I’ve worked for years. Sadly, only the foundations remain, but as there was never a successive occupation, you can walk on streets built by Etruscans, see their urban planning and view the foundations of houses, temples and tombs.
Our exhibition in Bologna, which brings together 1,400 Etruscan objects from across Italy, was due to end in May, but has happily been extended into the winter.
‘Etruscans: Journey Through the Lands of the Rasna’ is at the Archaeological Civic Museum of Bologna until 29 November 2020.
MORE INFO: etruschibologna.it necropoliditarquinia.it archeobologna.beniculturali.it/marzabotto cerveteri-tarquinia-sitiunesco.beniculturali.it