National Geographic Traveller (UK)
A brief guide to exploring Monemvasia
Tethered to the mainland by a dramatic causeway, the monolithic rock of Monemvasia, with its ochre-stoned fortress and tumbledown, Venetian-style mansions, has a fascinating maritime history and offers one of the most picturesque getaways in the southeast Peloponnese
It was the Byzantines who first recognised the strategic military value of Monemvasia, an outcrop rising sharply from the water just off the mainland. Since those first fortifications were carved into the rock in the sixth century, conquering Venetians and Ottomans added to its castle and steep, amphitheatre shaped town, resulting in a distinctive mix of architectural styles. Today, the main thoroughfare bustles with bistros, tavernas and artisans’ workshops. But the true magic of the place — and the best views —are tucked away in the uninhabited upper town, among crumbling mansions adorned with historic crests. As you climb the narrow, cobbled streets, stop at the Archaeological Museum and the Church of Elkomenos Christos. Hike on to the 11th-century, octagonal Church of Aghia Sophia and the fortress’s summit for a bewitching sunset.
WHERE TO EAT
Popular for its comfort food and friendly atmosphere, Matoula, the oldest taverna in Monemvasia, can get crowded during the peak summer months, but its traditional dishes and terrace garden are well worth queueing for. Enjoy soutzoukakia (stewed meatballs) with chilopites (noodles) or stuffed cabbage leaves and order a bottle or two of the local wine, Malvazia.
WHERE TO STAY
Formerly a monks’ residence, Kelia guesthouse has been restored in keeping with tradition and sits in a beautiful courtyard beside the whitewashed Church of Panagia Chryssafitissa. Interestingly, the famous Greek poet Yiannis Ritsos was born here. Rooms from €88 (£77), B&B. keliamonemvasia.com