National Geographic Traveller (UK)
THE RUGGED SPLENDOUR OF GANGWON
SOUTH KOREA’S NATURAL GEM IS WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED
With craggy mountains, ancient temples, an unspoiled coastline and a chance to gaze across the most fortified border on the planet, Gangwon Province promises to tantalise the senses while simultaneously soothing the soul
Dominated by the rocky rise of the Taebaek Mountains, Gangwon is South Korea’s largest and most remote province. This sparsely populated region is subject to harsh winters and has traditionally been a tough place to scratch out a living. The people, however, are known for their resilience and generosity, and the region they call home features some of the peninsula’s most pristine natural wonders.
Top reasons to visit
Once considered South Korea’s leastaccessible corner, Gangwon has recently seen tourism blossom. This is largely due to the construction of speedy transportation links for the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Olympic Games. The once-lengthy trip from Seoul can now be done in under two hours, making it easy for visitors to soak up the region’s myriad charms. Whether it’s outdoor thrills, hot springs, buzzing street markets, beachside cafes or the serenity of its many Buddhist temples, Gangwon offers up a smorgasbord of experiences, including a glimpse into the DMZ, one of the last vestiges of the Cold War.
Hit the slopes
From the capital Seoul, head to the town of Pyeongchang, where you can check out the Olympic Village and then ski the local slopes like a downhill champion. Snow or no snow, the surrounding Odaesan National Park begs exploration, so strap on your boots, climb its namesake mountain (5,128ft) and then bask in the tranquil environs of Woljeongsa Temple, the headquarters of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. After that, it’s time to head off the coast, where the town of Gangneung awaits. Graze at the food stalls of its traditional market before walking it off with a stroll around Hwajinpo Lake. There you can take in the former villas of the first leaders of both North and South Korea: Kim Il-sung’s castle at Hwajinpo and Syngman Rhee’s vacation cottage, which is now a little museum called Hwajinpo Memorial Hall. Later, wind down on the expansive sands of Gyeongpo Beach — one of Korea’s surfing hotspots — where you can paddle out on a board to catch a wave, take a cleansing dip or just watch the tide roll in from your table at one of the funky little cafes.
Head out into nature
Accessible from the seaside town of Sokcho, Seoraksan is South Korea’s third-highest mountain and arguably its most scenic. A spider’s web of hiking paths crisscrosses the national park it calls home, featuring the Silla-era temples Sinheungsa and Baekdamsa, Geumganggul Cave, Biryong and Yukdam waterfalls, Daecheongbong Peak (5,603ft), as well as the iconic Ulsanbawi, a gargantuan rise of granite slabs also known as ‘dinosaur ridge’.
There are treks for hikers of all levels, ranging from a short jaunt of a couple of hours right up to a couple of days. Those who prefer leaving the trekking poles at home can instead ride a cable-car up to Gwongeumseong, a medieval fortress that affords a spectacular view of the stony surroundings. And if your time on the mountain has got you feeling sore and creaky, make sure to relax with a soak at Osaek Carbonated Hot Springs, one of two inside the park.
A cuisine to savour
Given the harsh climate and mountainous terrain, Gangwon isn’t particularly well suited for rice cultivation. Buckwheat, instead, is king. This hearty grain is used as a staple throughout the region and finds its way into countless dishes, including both hot and cold buckwheat noodles ( memil guksu/naengmyeon), buckwheat dumplings ( memil mandu) and buckwheat pancakes ( memil jeon). Gangwon also stretches down much of the east coast of South Korea, however, and here it’s seafood that reigns supreme. Sashimi joints line the harbours of every town, along with restaurants specialising in grilled shellfish, crab and braised assorted seafood ( haemul jjim) containing the freshest local ingredients. Older, traditional dishes also enjoy widespread popularity, including potato dumpling soup ( gamja ongshimi) and
Chodang sundubu, a local tofu made with seawater that’s renowned for its creamy texture and rich, savoury flavour.
From 1950 to 1953, North and South Korea fought a devastating war that ended in a stalemate. No peace treaty was ever signed, and the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, stands as a stark reminder to that bloody conflict. This patch of no-man’s land bisects the whole of the Korean peninsula, acting as a buffer between the two nations. Its eastern terminus abuts the sea north of Sokcho and can be viewed from the Goseong Unification Observatory, a viewing platform overlooking a lonely expanse of beach stretching all the way to the fortified border. On a clear day, you can make out the fence line in the distance, as well as mountains in North Korea such at Mount Kumgang. Equally illuminating is the accompanying DMZ Museum, which provides a vivid history of this sad expanse of floodlights, watchtowers and razor wire. No trip to Gangwon is complete without a visit to this outpost of living history, reminding us that peace in Korea can’t be taken for granted.
Gangwon has space in abundance, meaning escaping the crowds has never been easier. For those wishing to get close to the province’s splendid nature, there are a multitude of camping options available, as well as some more upscale glamping sites, a trend that’s really caught on in recent years. Visitors can also choose from a wide array of accommodation options, there’s everything from boutique and luxury hotels and resorts in Pyeongchang, Gangneum and Sokcho to countryside pensions in more rural areas. These traditional Korean guesthouses have character in abundance, and are great places to stay in order to really get under the skin of Gangwon, as well as to meet other travellers. Plus, you can be certain that every pension will come complete with a barbecue grill, a South Korean must-have. Elsewhere, the colourful, brightly-lit motels found throughout the province are also a good option, and are surprisingly affordable.