Cambodia

In the shadow of Angkor Wat, Siem Reap’s cultural scene offers a modern foil to the ancient site

Angkor, the former seat of Cambodia’s Khmer Empire, is thought to have been home to around a million people at its peak. Today, the sprawling complex has been reclaimed by the forest, and its evocative ruins are some of Southeast Asia’s best-known landmarks. At its southern edge lies Siem Reap — a modern city of distinctive crafts and flavours that offers a thrilling contrast to the majesty of the ancient capital

Vendors, from basket weavers to fruit sellers, tout their wares on the roadside at Preah Dak, one of several villages surrounding Siem Reap. Exploring these, as well as the awe-inspiring temples dotting the region, is best done by tuk-tuk; with miles of dense, humid forest to pass through, getting around coolly and quickly is essential for locals and travellers alike.

Deep in the forest and enclosed by a moat, the vast Angkor Thom complex surrounding Bayon Temple is a regal feast of architecture. The final capital of the Khmer Empire, the ‘Great City’ is accessed by four gates that align with the main points of the compass. Each portal is crowned with an ornate stone tower, carved into which is a giant, crumbling face. The faces — at once serene and strong — are all said to be that of King Jayavarman VII, who ruled the Khmer Empire in the 12th century.

From the early morning onwards, Siem Reap’s Central Market thrums with activity: a clash of vibrant colours and aromas as people pack out the crisscross of streets. Much of the produce comes from the surrounding villages; it includes syrup and palm hearts gathered by Seourn every morning from the top of 100ft palm trees. There’s a burgeoning dining scene in the city, too — a charge led by restaurants such as Lum Orng, which focuses on farm-to-table dining. Not all of Siem Reap’s culinary past has survived, however; Tan Sotho, owner of Sala Kdei restaurant, can remember the dark times under the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s when the scarcity of food resulted in the loss of many traditional recipes.

As the sun begins to set, an espresso martini is on the cards at The Little Red Fox Espresso in Siem Reap’s Kandal Village, a buzzy quarter of cafes and boutiques. It’s a plum spot to while away an evening, particularly after a day exploring the vast complex of Angkor Wat, where, as the sun dips behind the towers of the temple, the sky softens into a bright, golden haze.