National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Stay at home
How to spend a weekend in Chester
Why go
Often overlooked in favour of its larger neighbours Liverpool and Manchester, Chester flies under the radar. But those who make it here will discover a thriving city that wears its history proudly. It was founded by the Romans, after all, whose legacy can still be seen in the amphitheatre, and there are also traces of Tudor, Georgian and Victorian architecture. Take in the views from the city walls, or grab a drink in one of its creakybeamed pubs. But for all its historical highlights, Chester has embraced its modern side, too, with a thriving independent scene, from pop-up supper spots to a stream of festivals. visitcheshire.com
What to do
Tours Around Chester offers 5km or 10km running tours of the city for nimble-footed visitors to take in all the key sights including Chester Cathedral, Eastgate Clock, the Roman amphitheatre, Chester Racecourse and the castle, with commentary from founder, Gareth Boyd. Alternatively, join one of Boyd’s food tours around its quick-bite spots and indie spaces, from fiery curries at Nine Elephants to a glass of vino at Spanish wine bar Vinological. toursaroundchester.co.uk
Where to eat
Locals love Joseph Benjamin, a Spanishinspired restaurant where classic tapas dishes dominate. Alternatively, head to Sticky Walnut, a first-rate neighbourhood spot in Hoole from chef Gary Usher. Go for the featherblade of beef and round off with the resplendent rosewater ice cream. josephbenjamin.co.uk stickywalnut.net
We like
Hypha, Chester’s sustainable plant-based restaurant, has a dedicated fermentation lab and retail space, Koji, where a series of masterclasses take diners into the world of fermentation. Afterwards, nab a seat in the restaurant where head chef and owner Nicholas Friar uses locally sourced produce from growers and foragers. hypha.restaurant
Where to stay
Set in a central Georgian townhouse, Oddfellows is a hip hotel with roll-top baths and wooden beams, and the adjoining apartments have mini kitchens, en suites and huge beds. Don’t miss an aperitif in the hotel’s Secret Garden, a relaxed suntrap away from the thrum of the city. Doubles from £169. oddfellowschester.com