DAY TWO SEASIDE & SALT

MORNING

Driving southwest from Menai Bridge and Llanfair PG, cross into the most picturesque corner of the island, where patchwork fields and copses drop down to the shores of the Menai Strait. You’ll soon pass by the National Trust’s Plas Newydd, a stately home edged by sprawling lawns, and the battlements of Caernarfon Castle rising on the mainland. Veer off at Brynsiencyn and head to Halen Môn: an artisan sea salt producer at the vanguard of Anglesey’s new gastronomic fame. Linger for lunch at Tide/Llanw, Halen Môn’s on-site cafe which, when the winds allow, features a giant, Nordic-style teepee. Cocklewarming cawl (soup), rarebit and wood-fired pizzas might be on the menu. From here, it’s a 30-minute drive on to Llanddwyn.

AFTERNOON

Llanddwyn is a vast beach of celestial beauty: it’s starred in Hollywood films, TV series and plenty of Instagram posts besides. The beach suddenly barges into view as the road emerges from Newborough Forest; from the car park, walk about a mile north along the sands to reach tidal Llanddwyn Island itself. Patrolled by wild ponies, Llanddwyn Island is associated with the legend of St Dwynwen (the Welsh saint of lovers), and lovestruck pilgrims sometimes pay tribute at her ruined church. It’s a suitably romantic setting, too, with hidden coves and turquoise waters. Return to the car park, walking back through Newborough

Forest. The woodland has a red squirrel breeding programme, so keep an eye out for them.

EVENING

The seaside village of Rhosneigr is a fine place for an early evening stroll: go wandering its sandstrewn lanes, watch the sun sink among the archipelago of islets offshore, or see the last of the day’s windsurfers gliding over the bay. It also has a few decent spots to visit after sunset, including The Oyster Catcher, where diners can sip craft ales in beach huts among the rolling dunes. But for one of Anglesey’s most memorable meals, retrace your route to Llanfair PG and the Marram Grass. Housed in an old potting shed, it’s normally associated with its pioneering tasting menus. During Covid-19 however, the Marram Grass is hosting ‘Moch a Môr’ — a pop-up restaurant serving pork dishes sourced from their on-site pig farm.