alternative city breaks

Whether it’s for food or fiestas, Spain’s lesser-known cities are just as beguiling as the big-hitters

Feasting in Cáceres

This provincial capital is so stuffed full of produce from the surrounding Extremaduran farmlands that it feels as though its medieval walls might burst. Graze on regional essentials like acorn-fed bellota ham and Torta del Casar sheep’s cheese at Old Town taperías La Minerva and La Cacharreria, before taking on the wild boar stew at local institution El Figón de Eustaquio. elfigondeeustaquio.com laminervacaceres.com

Moorish architecture in Córdoba

Seville and Granada get more attention for their Moorish heritage, but Córdoba was once a greater seat of Islamic power. Trace the hybrid Muslim-Christian artistry of the caliphate in the intricate geometries and ceramics of the Mosque–Cathedral of Córdoba’s Royal Chapel, or the interlaced archways of San Miguel church. mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es diocesisdecordoba.com

Albacete by night

Jokingly known to locals as the ‘New York of La Mancha’, the region’s biggest city is a party on the plains after dark. The Feria de Albacete festival spills out over 10 fireworkand dancing-filled days in September, but an evening walk between the hectic bar terraces of the La Zona and Los Titis party areas feels lively enough on most nights of the year. turismocastillalamancha.es feriadealbacete.es

Goya’s Zaragoza

The works of Zaragoza’s master painter, Francisco Goya, make fitting prisms through which to view the Aragonese capital, a city marked by Christian myths and violent invasions.

The Goya Route takes in his frescoes at Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, his court paintings at Zaragoza Museum, his engravings at MICAZ (Museo Ibercaja Camón Aznar) and his oils on the walls at the Charterhouse of Aula Dei. zaragoza.es

Bodegas of Logroño

The capital of La Rioja province is a trading centre for the eponymous wine. Many tapas bars squeeze into this compact city, all serving varietals made from Tempranillo and other regional grapes. The cluster of wineries on both sides of the Ebro River includes Bodega Arizcuren Vinos and Bodegas Franco-Españolas. francoespanolas.com arizcurenvinos.com

Roman heritage in Lugo

The gothic-baroque old town of this Galician city is surrounded by even older, Roman structures. You can cross their rebuilt six-arch bridge over the Minho river, walk their defensive walls and visit their baths, now occupied by Hotel Balneario De

Lugo. The House of Mosaics, a former Roman mansion, also showcases their craftwork. balneariodelugo.com